Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [505]
Ibiza (0 7734 9121; www.ibizabungalows.com; bungalows 150-1300B; ) Ibiza brings Hat Rin’s youthful backpacker vibe up the west coast to Hat Yao. The no-frills bungalows are run of the mill, but the friendly staff members, appealing central garden, and cheap rates keep budget travellers coming back for more.
Tantawan Bungalow (0 7734 9108; www.tantawanbungalow.com; bungalows 450-550B; s) Little Tantawan sits high up in the jungle like a tree house, boasting soaring sea views from the sprinkle of rugged bungalows. Guests can take a dip in the trapezoidal swimming pool or enjoy the sunrise on their small bamboo porch. Don’t forget to try the tasty French and Thai dishes at the on-site restaurant.
High Life (0 7734 9114; www.highlifebungalow.com; bungalows 500-2000B; as) We can’t decide what’s more conspicuous: the dramatic ocean views from the infinity-edged swimming pool, or the blatant double entendre in the resort’s name. True to its moniker, the 25 bungalows, of various shapes and sizes, sit on a palmed outcropping of granite soaring high above the cerulean sea. Advance bookings will set you back an extra 200B.
Haad Son Resort (0 7734 9104; www.haadson.info; bungalows 1000-8000B; ais) The word ‘complex’ has a double meaning at this vast resort; we suggest leaving a trail of breadcrumbs along the serpentine paths if you ever want to find the way back to your room. The poshest rooms aren’t worth the baht, so go for the budget digs; they’re simple, but you’ll have access to all of the on-site amenities.
Haad Yao Bay View (0 7734 9193; www.haadyao-bayviewresort.com; r & bungalows 2000-5000B; ais) Sparkling after a recent facelift, this conglomeration of bungalows and hotel-style accommodation looks like a tropical mirage on Hat Yao’s northern headland. Vacationers, in various states of undress, linger around the large turquoise swimming pool catching rays and Zs. Others nest in their private suites amid polished hardwood floors and wicker day-beds.
Hat Salad
One of the best beaches on the island, Hat Salad has a string of quality accommodation along the sand.
Cookies Salad (0 7734 9125, 08 3181 7125; www.cookies-phangan.com; bungalows 1500-3000B) The resort with a tasty name has delicious Balinese-style bungalows orbiting a two-tiered lap pool tiled in various shades of blue. Shaggy thatching and dense tropical foliage gives the realm a certain rustic quality, although you won’t want for creature comforts.
Green Papaya (0 7737 4182; www.greenpapayaresort.com; bungalows 4000-7500B; ais) The polished wooden bungalows at Green Papaya are a clear standout along the lovely beach at Hat Salad, however they come at quite a hefty price.
Ao Mae Hat
The northwest tip of the island has excellent ocean vistas, and little Ko Ma is connected to Pha-Ngan by a stunning sand bar.
Royal Orchid (0 7737 4182; royal_orchid_maehaad@hotmail.com; bungalows 300-800B; ai) Handsome backpacker bungalows are arranged like a zipper along a slender garden bath – most have fleeting views of the serene beach and idyllic sand bar that extends to scenic Ko Ma offshore.
Pha-Ngan Utopia Resort (0 7737 4093; www.phanganutopia.com; bungalows 1500-3000B; ais) It’s pretty audacious to name one’s resort ‘Utopia’, but the owners have done an excellent job of creating an idyllic jungle retreat perched high above the sea. Our favourite rooms – the two-storey villas – slope down the mountainside and have an entire level dedicated to an extra-large Jacuzzi.
NORTHERN BEACHES
Stretching from Chalok Lam to Thong Nai Pan, the dramatic northern coast is a wild jungle with several stunning and secluded beaches – it’s the most scenic coast on the island.
Chalok Lam (Chaloklum) & Hat Khom
The cramped fishermen’s village at Chalok Lam is like no other place on Ko Pha-Ngan. The conglomeration of teak shanties and huts is a palpable reminder that the wide-reaching hand of globalisation has yet to touch some parts of the world. Srng·ta·ou ply the route