Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [506]
Sarisa Place (bungalows from 250B) Trippy seashells dangle on the porches at Sarisa, which offers cheap (but lacklustre) semi-detached bungalows. Guests get a free motorbike rental to tool around the island (petrol not included).
Fanta (0 7737 4132; fantaphangan@yahoo.com; bungalows 300-700B) Not to be confused with Fantasea next-door, Fanta sits at the far eastern side of Chaloklum and boasts rows of old-school Pha-Ngan bungalows (think lots of worn wood and thatch) on a sizeable chunk of sand.
Coral Bay (0 7737 4245; bungalows 150-600B) Perched on a small promontory separating Chaloklum from Hat Khom, Coral Bay’s seemingly secluded selection of classic backpacker digs can be easily accessed by road or water taxi from the heart of Chaloklum.
Mandalai (0 7737 4316; www.mymandalai.com; r 2750-5600B; ais) Like an ash-white Riyadh from a distant Arabian land, this small boutique hotel quietly towers over the surrounding shantytown of fishermen’s huts. Floor-to-ceiling windows command views of tangerine-coloured fishing boats in the bay, and there’s an intimate wading pool hidden in the inner cloister.
Bottle Beach (Hat Khuat)
This isolated dune has garnered a reputation as a low-key getaway, and has thus become quite popular. During high season, places can fill up fast so it’s best to try and arrive early. Grab a long-tail taxi boat from Chalok Lam for 50B to 120B (depending on the boat’s occupancy).
Bottle Beach II (0 7744 5156; bungalows 350-400B) At the far eastern corner of the beach, this is the spot where penny pinchers can live out their castaway fantasies.
Smile (08 1956 3133; smilebeach@hotmail.com; bungalows 400-700B) At the far west corner of the beach, Smile features an assortment of wooden huts that climb up a forested hill. The two-storey bungalows (700B) are our favourite.
Haad Khuad Resort (0 7744 5153; www.geocities.com/haadkhuad_resort; r 1800-2200B; ) Although significantly more expensive than the other sleeping spots on Bottle Beach, this small hotel is worth the splurge. The rooms are fastidiously clean and they all feature floor-to-ceiling windows that face the cerulean bay.
Thong Nai Pan
The pair of rounded bays at Thong Nai Pan looks a bit like buttocks; Ao Thong Nai Pan Yai (yai means ‘big’) is the northern half, and Ao Thong Nai Pan Noi (noi means ‘little’) curves just below. These beaches have been increasing in popularity over the last few years as a pleasant alternative to the raucous in Hat Rin. Click here for information about transport to Thong Nai Pan.
Dolphin (bungalows 500-1300B; ) Sorry Dolphin, we have to let the cat out of the bag…you’re the best sleeping spot on the island. This hidden retreat gives yuppie travellers a chance to rough it in style, while granola types will soak up every inch of the laid-back charm. Quiet afternoons are spent lounging on the comfy cushions in one of the small pagodas hidden throughout the jungle. Lodging is only available on a first-come basis.
Havana (0 7744 5162; www.phanganhavana.com; r 3000-4500B, ste 7000-8000B; as) The newest spot in Thong Nai Pan features psychedelic ocean-inspired murals in the rooms, which are arranged in apartment-style complexes around an inviting swimming pool.
Santhiya (0 7723 8333; www.santhiya.com; bungalows from 10,000B; ais) Beautiful Santhiya feels a bit out of place on Ko Samui’s shabby younger brother. Ko Pha-Ngan is accustomed to bamboo huts, not maid service and flamboyant gestures of Siamese design.
EAST COAST BEACHES
Robinson Crusoe, eat your heart out. The east coast is the ultimate hermit hang-out. For the most part, you’ll have to hire a boat to get to these beaches, but water taxis are available in Thong Sala and Hat Rin. Some of these secluded beaches can even be reached by taking the ferry connecting Thong Nai Pan and Mae Nam on Ko Samui ( Click here).
Than Sadet & Thong Reng
Accessible by 4WD vehicles and colourful taxi boats, quiet