Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [507]
Treehouse (treehouse.kp@googlemail.com; bungalows from 200B) Ko Chang (the big Ko Chang)’s legendary backpacker hang-out has recently set up shop along the secluded waters of Thong Reng. Follow the cheery plastic flowers over the hill from Than Sadet to find uberbasic digs drenched in bright shades of paint.
Plaa’s (0 7744 5191; bungalows 600B; ) Plaa’s colourful village of bungalows sits on the northern headland of Than Sadet overlooking the bay below. Grab a Corona, ’cause this is the perfect place to shoot one of those idyllic-beach beer commercials.
Mai Pen Rai (0 7744 5090; www.thansadet.com; bungalows 600B; ) ‘Mai pen rai’ is the Thai equivalent of ‘don’t worry, be happy’, which isn’t too surprising since this bay elicits nothing but sedate smiles. Bungalows mingle with Plaa’s on the hilly headland, and sport panels of straw weaving with gabled roofs.
Hat Thian
Geographically, Hat Thian is quite close to Hat Rin; however, there are no roads and the crude hiking trail is lengthy and confusing. Ferry taxis are available from Hat Rin for around 150B.
Beam Bungalows (0 7927 2854, 08 6947 3205; bungalows 300-500B) Beam is set back from the beach and tucked behind a coconut palm grove. Charming wooden huts have dangling hammocks out front, and big bay windows face the ocean through the swaying palms.
Sanctuary (08 1271 3614; www.thesanctuarythailand.com; dm 120B, bungalows 400-3800B) A friendly enclave promoting relaxation, this inviting haven offers luxury lodging and also functions as a holistic retreat offering everything from yoga classes to detox sessions. Accommodation, in various manifestations of twigs, is scattered around the resort, married to the natural surroundings. You’ll want to Nama-stay forever.
Hat Yuan
Hat Yuan has a few bungalow operations, and is quite secluded as there are no roads connecting this little beach to Hat Rin down the coast.
Barcelona (0 7737 5113; bungalows 200-600B) Solid wood huts come in two shades: natural wood or creamy white. They climb up the hill on stilts behind a palm garden and have good vistas and jovial staff.
Eating
Ko Pha-Ngan is no culinary capital, especially since most visitors quickly absorb the lazy lifestyle and wind up eating at their accommodation. Those with an adventurous appetite should check out Thong Sala and the island’s southern coast.
HAT RIN
This bustling ’burb has the largest conglomeration of restaurants and bars on the island, yet most of them are pretty lousy. The infamous Chicken Corner ( Map) is a popular intersection stocked with several poultry peddlers promising to cure the munchies, be it noon or midnight.
Mr K ( Map; 0 7737 5470; dishes 50-80B; 24hr) Our favourite joint at ‘Chicken Corner’, Mr K offers local eats all night long. Cheesy Thai soap-operas blare on the TV, and there’s dirt-cheap beer to wash down your meal.
Same Same Burger ( Map; 0 7737 5200; www.same-same.com; burgers 180-230B; lunch & dinner) Owned by the folks who run the backpacker digs with the same same name, this bright-red burger joint is the same same as McDonald’s.
Lazy House ( Map; 0 7737 5432; dishes 90-270B; lunch & dinner) Back in the day, this joint was the owner’s apartment – everyone liked his cooking so much that he decided to turn the place into a restaurant and hang-out spot. Today, Lazy House is easily one of Hat Rin’s best places to veg in front of a movie with a scrumptious shepherd’s pie.
Lucky Crab ( Map; dishes 100-400B; lunch & dinner) Lucky Crab is your best bet for seafood in Hat Rin. Rows of freshly caught creatures are presented nightly atop miniature long-tail boats loaded with ice. Once you’ve picked your prey, grab a table inside amid dangling plants and charming stone furnishings.
SOUTHERN BEACHES
Thong Sala
Night Market (dishes 25-180B; 6.30-10.30pm) A heady mix of steam and snacking locals, Thong Sala’s night market is a must for those looking for a dose of culture while nibbling on a low-priced snack. The best place to grab some cheap grub