Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [510]
Getting There & Away
As always, the cost and departure times are in flux. Rough waves are known to cancel ferries between the months of October and December. Beware of travel agencies in Bangkok and Surat Thani selling fake boat-train combinations.
BANGKOK, HUA HIN & CHUMPHON
Lomprayah (www.lomprayah.com) and Seatran Discovery (www.seatrandiscovery.com) have bus-boat combination packages departing from Bangkok and passing through Chumphon. It is also quite hassle-free to take the train from Bangkok to Chumphon and switch to a ferry service (it works out to be about the same price). For detailed information about travelling through Chumphon Click here or Click here. Bangkok-bound passengers can choose to disembark in Hua Hin.
KO SAMUI
There are almost 10 daily departures between Ko Pha-Ngan and Ko Samui (200B to 350B). These boats leave throughout the day from 7am to 4pm and take from 30 minutes to an hour. All leave from either Thong Sala or Hat Rin on Ko Pha-Ngan and arrive either in Na Thon, Mae Nam or the Bang Rak pier on Ko Samui. If the final location matters, state your preferences while buying your ticket.
The Haad Rin Queen (200B) goes back and forth between Hat Rin and Big Buddha Beach. Ferry service from Samui’s Mae Nam pier leaves at noon and wanders up the eastern coast of Ko Pha-Ngan, stopping in Hat Thian, Than Sadet and Thong Nai Pan. Boats running in the other direction leave Thong Nai Pan at 9am.
There are no car ferries between Ko Pha-Ngan and Ko Samui, you must return to the mainland and take a separate boat.
KO TAO
Ko Tao–bound Lomprayah and Seatran Discovery ferries depart Ko Pha-Ngan at 8.30am and 1pm and arrive at 9.45am and 2.15pm. Songserm leaves Ko Pha-Ngan at noon and arrives at 1.45pm. Note the catamaran ferry times are always in flux and it is best to check the timetable with a travel agent.
SURAT THANI & THE ANDAMAN COAST
Combination boat-bus tickets are available at any travel agency; simply tell them your desired destination and they will sell you the necessary links in the transport chain. Most travellers will pass through Surat Thani as they swap coasts. There are approximately six daily departures between Ko Pha-Ngan and Surat Thani (220B to 350B, 2½ hours) on the Raja Car Ferry, Songserm or Seatran. These boats leave from Thong Sala throughout the day from 7am to 8pm. Every night, depending on the weather, a night boat runs from Surat, departing at 11pm. Boats in the opposite direction leave Ko Pha-Ngan at 10pm. See the Backpackers Information Centre website ( Click here) for detailed departure times to most Andaman destinations.
Getting Around
Click here for important information about the dangers of riding motorbikes around the island. You can rent motorcycles all over the island for 150B to 250B per day. Always wear a helmet – it’s the law on Ko Pha-Ngan, and local policemen are starting to enforce it. Bicycle rentals are discouraged unless you’re fit enough to take on Lance Armstrong. Car rentals are around 1000B a day.
Some places, such as Bottle Beach and some sections of the eastern coast, can only be reached by boat. If you do find trails, keep in mind that they are often overgrown and not suitable for solo navigation.
Srng·ta·ou chug along the island’s major roads and the riding rates double after sunset. Ask your accommodation about free or discount transfers when you leave the island. The trip from Thong Sala to Hat Rin is 50B; further beaches will set you back around 100B.
Long-tail boats depart from Thong Sala, Chalok Lam and Hat Rin, heading to a variety of far-flung destinations like Hat Khuat (Bottle Beach) and Ao Thong Nai Pan. Expect to pay anywhere from 50B, for a short trip, to 300B for a lengthier journey. You can charter a private boat ride from beach to beach for about 150B per 15 minutes of travel.
KO TAO
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First there was Ko Samui, then Ko Pha-Ngan; now, the cult