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By Root 4103 0

of Ko Tao (‘Ko Taoism’ perhaps?) has emerged along Thailand’s crystalline Gulf Coast. Today, thousands of visitors come to worship the turquoise waters offshore, and quite often many of them stay. The secret to Ko Tao’s undeniable appeal? Simple: although the island is only 21 sq km, tiny Tao sure knows how to pack it in – there’s something for everyone, and nothing is in moderation. Diving enthusiasts cavort with sharks and rays in a playground of tangled neon coral. Hikers and hermits can re-enact an episode from ‘Lost’ in the dripping coastal jungles. And when you’re Robinson Crusoe-ed out, hit the bumpin’ bar scene that rages on until dawn.

Many years have already passed since the first backpacker came to the scrubby island and planted a flag in the name of self-respecting shoestring travellers everywhere, but fret not, there’s still plenty of time to join the tribe. Ko Tao has many years to go before corporate resort owners bulldoze rustic cottages, and visitors start discussing stockholdings rather than sea creatures spotted on their latest dive.

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Orientation

Ferries pull into Mae Hat, on the western side of the island. This seaside town has all the tourist amenities one would need: travel agencies, hotels, dive shops, restaurants, internet cafes and motorcycle rentals. The biggest village on the island is Sairee Beach (also called Hat Sai Ri), about 2km up the coast. Here, travellers will find similar amenities but in greater quantity. Chalok Ban Kao, on the muddy southern coast, is the island’s third settlement.

The island’s eastern and northern coasts are fairly undeveloped compared to the bustling west coast, with only a few bungalow enterprises on each little bay. A paved road connects the west coast to Tanote Bay; a four-wheel vehicle should be used when navigating any of the other rugged roads in the area.

About the only thing of historic interest on the island is a large boulder, which has the initials of King Rama V, commemorating his royal visit in 1899.

Information

EMERGENCY

Police station (0 7745 6631) At the northern end of Mae Hat near the beach.

INTERNET ACCESS

Rates are generally 2B per minute, with a 20B minimum, and discounts if you log on for one hour or longer. You may find that certain useful tourism websites have been firewalled at internet cafes affiliated with travel agencies.

INTERNET RESOURCES

Koh Tao Community (www.kohtao-community.com) A forum offering general info about the various goings-on around the island.

Koh Tao Online (www.kohtaoonline.com) An online version of the handy Koh Tao Info booklet.

Just Koh Tao (www.justkohtao.com) A blog focused on local diving and conservation information.

LAUNDRY

After a few dives, you’ll probably want to wash your swim trunks (especially if you saw a shark and ‘accidentally’ peed your wetsuit). Almost every bungalow operation (and even some restaurants) offers laundry service. One kilo of laundry should be 30B, although operations closer to the beach tend to charge 40B. You may want to ask your diving instructor where he or she gets their washing done, as sometimes items get conveniently lost. Express service is usually available for 60B per kilogram.

MEDIA

The ubiquitous Koh Tao Info booklet lists loads of businesses on the island and goes into some detail about the island’s history, culture and social issues. The pocket-sized Sabai Jai is a new publication on the island dedicated to ecotravel.

MEDICAL SERVICES

All divers must sign a medical waiver before exploring the sea. If you have any medical condition that might hinder your ability to dive (including mild asthma), you will be asked to get medical clearance from a doctor on Ko Tao. Consider seeing a doctor before your trip as there are no official hospitals on the island, and the number of qualified medical professionals is limited. Also, make sure your travel insurance covers scuba diving.

Bangkok Samui Hospital ( Map; 0 7742 9500; Hat Sai Ri; on call 24hr) Offers competent medical service in a large glassy storefront.

Diver Safety Support