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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [516]

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coves are dotted with stunning retreats that still offer a true getaway experience, but these can be difficult to reach due to the island’s dismal network of roads. You can often call ahead of time and arrange to be picked up from the pier.

SAIREE BEACH (HAT SAI RI)

Giant Sairee Beach is the longest and most developed strip on the island, with a string of dive operations, bungalows, travel agencies, superettes and internet cafes. The narrow ‘yellow brick road’ stretches the entire length of beach (watch out for motorcycles).

Budget

Blue Wind ( Map; 0 7745 6116, 0 7745 6015; bluewind_wa@yahoo.com; bungalows 300-900B; ) Hidden within a clump of bodacious lodging options, Blue Wind offers a breath of fresh air from the high-intensity dive resorts strung along Sairee Beach. Sturdy bamboo huts are peppered along a dirt trail behind the beachside bakery. Large, tiled air-conditioned cabins are also available, boasting hot showers and TVs.

Big Blue Resort ( Map; 0 7745 6050; www.bigbluediving.com; r 200-1000B; ai) This scuba-centric resort has a summer-camp vibe – diving classes dominate the daytime, while evenings are spent en masse, grabbing dinner or watching fire-twirling. Both the basic fan bungalows and motel-style air-con rooms offer little when it comes to views, but who has the time to relax when there’s an ocean out there to explore?

In Touch ( Map; 0 7745 6514; bungalows 500-1200B) Older bungalows are a mishmash of bamboo and dark wood, while several rounded air-con rooms have a cave theme – it’s all very Flintstones, except the shower nozzle hasn’t been replaced with the trunk of an elephant.

Sairee Cottage ( Map; 0 7745 6126, 0 7745 6374; saireecottage@hotmail.com; bungalows 400-1500B; ) The air-con bungalows are hard to miss since they’ve been painted in various hues of fuchsia. Low prices means low vacancy – so arrive early to score one of the brick huts facing out onto a grassy knoll.

Midrange

Pranee’s ( Map; 0 7745 6080; bungalows 500-2000B) Tidy budget bungalows, made of wood and rattan-woven walls, are shaded by coconut-wielding palms. A new fleet of air-con options are an uninspiring mix of white and blue, but some still have that new car smell.

Ban’s Diving Resort ( Map; 0 7745 6466, 0 7745 6061; www.amazingkohtao.com; r 400-3000; ais) This dive-centric party palace offers a wide range of quality accommodation, from basic backpacker digs to sleek hillside villas. Post-scuba chill sessions happen on Ban’s prime slice of beach, or at one of the two swimming pools tucked within the strip of jungle between the two motel-like structures. Evenings are spent at the bar downing international cuisine and ‘buckets’ in equal measure.

Seashell Resort ( Map; 0 7745 6299; www.seashell-resort.com; bungalows 450-3800B; ) Several bungalows have ocean views from their porches (a rarity in Sairee), while others sit in a well-maintained garden of colourful vegetation and thin palm trunks. Seashell welcomes divers and non-divers alike.

Sunset Buri Resort ( Map; 0 7745 6266; bungalows 700-2500B; ais) A long beach-bound path is studded with beautiful white bungalows featuring enormous windows and flamboyant temple-like roofing. The kidney-shaped pool is a big hit, as are the large beach recliners sprinkled around the resort.

Top End

Ko Tao Cabana ( Map; 0 7745 6250; www.kohtaocabana.com; bungalows 3000-6300B; ) This prime piece of beachside property offers timber-framed villas and crinkled white adobe huts dotted along the boulder-strewn. Bric-a-brac cheers the colourful bungalows – stone gnomes greet you with a naughty smirk as you shower in the roofless bathrooms.

Koh Tao Coral Grand Resort ( Map; 0 7745 6431; www.kohtaocoral.com; bungalows 3200-4500B; as) The plethora of pink facades at this family-friendly option feels a bit like Barbie’s dream Thai beach-house. Cottage interiors are coated in cheery primary colours framed by white truncated beams while pricier digs have a more distinctive Thai flavour, boasting dark lacquered mouldings and gold-foiled art. Guests can participate in an array of organised off-site

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