Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [517]
Thipwimarn ( Map; 0 7745 6409; www.thipwimarnresort.com; bungalows 3100-4900B; as) North of the Sairee action, Thipwimarn occupies a secluded strip of land overlooking the quiet crystal sea. A circular restaurant with an outstanding view offers intimate, floor-level tables. Attractive bungalows spill down the hillside among boulders and greenery, with a myriad of stairs to keep you fit!
MAE HAT (HAT AO MAE)
All ferry arrivals pull into the pier at the busy village of Mae Hat. Busy village accommodation is spread throughout, but the more charming options extend in both directions along the sandy beach.
North of the Pier
Mr J Bungalow (0 7745 6066, 0 7745 6349; bungalows 250-1000B) Even though Mr J tried to charge us 50B for his business card, we still think he’s well worth the visit. The eccentric owner entangles guests in a philosophical web while tending to his flock of decent bungalows. Ask him about reincarnation if you want to hear some particularly twisted conjectures.
Crystal Dive (0 7745 6107; www.crystaldive.com; bungalows 800-1500B; as) The bungalows and motel-style accommodation at Crystal are reserved for its divers, and prices drop significantly for those taking courses. Guests can take a dip in the refreshing pool when it isn’t overflowing with bubble-blowing newbie divers. At the time of research, the construction of a newer, shmancier digs was underway.
Blue Wave House (0 7745 6287; nightly/monthly r 1000/10,000B; ) Hooked on Ko Tao’s addictive diving vibe and planning on staying forever? These prim rooms in the heart of Mae Hat village are a good choice, if you’re looking for a monthly rental.
Montra Resort & Spa (0 7745 7057; www.kohtaomontra.com; r from 3500B; ais) Mae Hat’s newest address is an upmarket affair with all the modern bells and whistles. The hotel structure is rather imposing when compared to the scatter of humble bungalows at the neighbouring resorts.
South of the Pier
Utopia Suites (0 7745 6729, 0 7745 6672; r/ste from 600/200B, monthly from 20,000B) Utopia’s apartment-style accommodation is located in the charming fishing village, just a stone’s throw from the pier. The beachside apartment-style accommodation is perfect for families and small groups. Ask about discounts for extended stays.
Charm Churee Villa (0 7745 6393; www.charmchureevilla.com; bungalows 3200-12,200B; ais) Tucked gently under sky-scraping palms, the luxuriant villas of Charm Churee are dedicated to the flamboyant spoils of the Far East. Gold-foiled oriental demigods pose in arabesque positions, with bejewelled eyes frozen in a Zen-like trance. Staircases, chiselled into the rock face, dribble down a palmed slope revealing teak huts strewn across smoky boulders. The villas’ unobstructed views of the swishing indigo waters are nothing short of charming.
The following sleeping spots are located further south and can be accessed by a quick ride in a boat taxi.
Sai Thong Resort (0 7745 6868; www.saithong-resort.com; bungalows 300-2500B; ais) As the rush of Mae Hat dwindles away along the island’s southwest shore, Sai Thong emerges along sandy Hat Sai Nuan. Bungalows, in various incarnations of weaving and wood, have colourful porch hammocks and palm-filled vistas. Guests frequent the restaurant’s relaxing sun deck, a favourite spot for locals too.
Tao Thong Villa (0 7745 6078; bungalows from 500B) Very popular with long-termers seeking peace and quiet, these funky, no-frills bungalows have killer views. Tao Thong actually straddles two tiny beaches on a craggy cape about halfway between Mae Hat and Chalok Ban Kao. The pair of neighbouring swim spots are the perfect place for a hermitic afternoon.
CHALOK BAN KAO
Ao Chalok Ban Kao, about 1.7km south of Mae Hat by road, is the third largest concentration of accommodation on Ko Tao, but can feel a lot more crowded because the beach is significantly smaller than Sairee and Mae Hat. The beach itself isn’t tops