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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [524]

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dives for exploring shallow caves and colourful coral gardens and spotting banded sea snakes and turtles. Soft powder beaches line Ko Tai Plao, Ko Wuakantang and Ko Hintap.

Tours

The best way to experience Ang Thong is through one of many guided tours departing from Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan. The tours usually include lunch, snorkelling equipment, hotel transfers and (with fingers crossed) a knowledgeable guide. If you’re staying in luxury accommodation, there’s a good chance that your resort has a private boat for group tours. Some midrange and budget also have their own boats, and if not, they can easily set you up with a general tour operator. Dive centres on Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan offer scuba trips to the park, although Ang Thong doesn’t offer the world-class diving that can be found around Ko Tao.

Due to the tumultuous petrol prices, tour companies tend to come and go like the wind. Ask at your accommodation for a list of current operators; see also Click here.

Sleeping

Ang Thong does not have any resorts; however, on Ko Wua Talap the national park has set up five bungalows, each housing between two and eight guests. The marine national park also allows campers to pitch a tent in certain designated zones. Advance reservations can be made with the National Parks Services (0 7728 6025, 0 7728 0222; www.dnp.go.th; bungalows 500-1400B). Online bookings are possible, although customers must forward a bank deposit within two days of making the reservation. Check out the website for detailed information.

Getting There & Around

The best way to reach the park is to catch a private day-tour from Ko Samui or Ko Pha-Ngan (located 28km and 32km away, respectively). The islands sit between Samui and the main pier at Don Sak; however, there are no ferries that stop off along the way. The park officially has an admission fee (adult/child 400/200B), although it should be included in the price of every tour. Private boat charters are also another possibility, although high gas prices will make the trip quite expensive.

SURAT THANI

pop 111,900

This busy junction has become a transport hub that indiscriminately moves cargo and people around the country. Travellers rarely linger here as they make their way to the deservedly popular islands of Ko Samui, Ko Pha-Ngan and Ko Tao. Those who are looking for an off-the-beaten-path Thai cultural experience should pick a different city.


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Information

Scores of tourists pass through town every day sparking many unscrupulous travel agencies to develop innovative scams involving substandard buses, phantom bookings and surprise ‘extra’ fees. Not everyone’s a crook, of course, just make sure to ask a lot of questions and trust your instincts. Traffic in Surat Thani flows both ways, so when you happen upon tourists travelling in the opposite direction, ask them about the details of their trek.

Th Na Meuang has a bank on virtually every corner in the heart of downtown. If you’re staying near the ‘suburbs’, the Tesco-Lotus has ATMs as well.

Post office (0 7727 2013, 0 7728 1966; Th Talat Mai) Across from Wat Thammabucha.

Siam City Bank (Th Chonkasem) Has a Western Union office.

Taksin Hospital (0 7727 3239; Th Talat Mai) The most professional of Surat’s three hospitals. Just beyond the Talat Mai Market in the northeast part of downtown.

Tourist Authority of Thailand office (TAT; 0 7728 8817-9; tatsurat@samart.co.th; 5 Th Talat Mai; Sun-Fri) Friendly office southwest of town. Distributes useful brochures and maps, and staff speak English very well.

Sleeping

For a comfy night in Surat, escape the grimy city centre and hop on a srng·ta·ou heading towards the Phang-Nga district. When you climb aboard, tell the driver ‘Tesco-Lotus’, and you’ll be taken about 2km to 3km out of town to a large, box-like shopping centre. At least four hotel options orbit the mall and have reasonable prices and refreshingly modern amenities.

Options in the downtown area are cheaper, but they tend to offer ‘by the hour’ service, so things can get a bit noisy as clients come and

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