Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [525]
If you are stuck in the cruddy transport junction of Phun Phin, or want to catch a very early train before the bus service begins in Surat, don’t despair; there are a few tolerable options.
Queen Hotel (0 7731 1003; 916/10-13 Th Sri Sawat, Phun Phin; r 200-400B; ) The Queen Hotel is just a block away from Phun Phin’s rail station. It’s no luxury vacation, but at least you won’t have to sleep on the streets. Have a look at a couple of rooms before putting down your bags – some choices are larger and less dingy than others.
100 Islands Resort & Spa (0 7720 1150; www.roikoh.com; 19/6 Moo 3, Bypass Rd; r 590-1200B; ais) Across the street from the suburban Tesco-Lotus, 100 Islands is as good as it gets in Thailand for under 600B. This teak palace looks out of place along the suburban highway, but inside, the immaculate rooms surround an overgrown garden and lagoon-like swimming pool.
Wangtai Hotel (0 7728 3020; www.wangtaisurat.com; 1 Th Talad Mai; r 790-2000B; ais) Across the river from the TAT office, Wangtai tries its best to provide a corporate hotel atmosphere. Polite receptionists and tux-clad bellboys bounce around the vast lobby, and upstairs, rooms have unmemorable furnishings, but there are good views of the city from the upper floors.
Eating & Drinking
Surat Thani isn’t exactly bursting with dining options. Head to the night market on Th Ton Pho for fried, steamed, grilled or sautéed delicacies. Don’t forget to try the crunchy insects, we hear they’re a great source of protein. During the day many food stalls near the bus terminal sell kôw gài òp (marinated baked chicken on rice), which is very tasty.
Crossroads Restaurant (0 7722 1525; Bypass Rd; dishes 50-200B; 11am-1am) Located southwest of Surat across from the Tesco-Lotus mall, Crossroads has a quaint bluesy vibe enhanced by dim lighting and live music. Try the oysters – Surat Thani is famous for its giant molluscs, and the prices are unbeatable.
GM Pub (30/16 Th Karunrach; dishes 40-140B; lunch & dinner) GM has a good mix of locals and fa·ràng English teachers who return time and time again for the mellow atmosphere, tasty international menu, and wide selection of beer and cocktails.
Getting There & Away
In general, if you are departing Bangkok or Hua Hin for Ko Samui, Ko Pha-Ngan or Ko Tao, consider taking a boat-bus package that goes through Chumphon rather than Surat. You’ll save time, and the journey will be more comfortable. Travellers can also take a train south to Chumphon and then connect to a catamaran service. Those who are moving between the Andaman and Gulf Coasts will probably travel with package transport tickets, and should not have to purchase any additional tickets in Surat Thani.
AIR
There are two daily shuttles to Bangkok on Thai Airways International (0 7727 2610; 3/27-28 Th Karunarat) for around 3000B (70 minutes).
BOAT
In the high season there are usually bus-boat services to Ko Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan directly from the train station. These services don’t cost any more than those booked in Surat Thani and can save you a lot of waiting around. There are also several ferry and speedboat operators that connect Surat Thani to Ko Tao, Ko Pha-Ngan and Ko Samui. See the transport section of your desired destination for exact details.
From Surat there are nightly ferries to Ko Tao (500B, eight hours), Ko Pha-Ngan (200B, seven hours) and Ko Samui (150B, six hours). All leave from the town’s central night ferry pier at 11pm. These are cargo ships, not luxury boats, so bring food and water and watch your bags. If Thai passengers are occupying your assigned berth, it’s best to grab a different one nearby rather than asking them to move.
BUS & MINIVAN
Most long-distance public buses run from the Talat Kaset 1 and 2 bus terminals. Air-con minivans