Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [534]
If you’re just coming to renew your Thai visa, the whole process will take between 1½ and 4½ hours, depending on how you are travelling. Bear in mind that Myanmar’s clocks are 30 minutes behind Thailand time. Oh, and bring an umbrella and some bottled water – there’s very little shade on the trip.
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When you’re done with your book, spend your time exploring the island’s tiny village ‘capital’ (and we use that word lightly), or wind your way around on one of the dirt trails. Sea eagles, Andaman kites and hornbills all nest here, and, if you’re lucky, you’ll catch sight of them floating above the mangroves.
Bungalow operators can arrange boat trips to Ko Phayam and other nearby islands for around 200B per person (including lunch) in a group of six or more. Dive trips are also possible. Aladdin Dive Cruise (0 7782 0472; www.aladdindivecruise.de), on Ko Chang, runs PADI courses and offers a range of live-aboard dive safaris.
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SLEEPING & EATING
Bamboo and thatch are the norm on rustic Ko Chang and, for the most part, they’re only open from November to April. Electricity is limited although a few spots use solar power.
Ko Chang Resort (0 7782 8177; Ao Yai; bungalows 200-300B) Bright colours and bamboo slats perch on the rocks above a patch of peach sand. The pricier bungalows have split-level decks, and the bathrooms are some of the best around.
Cashew Resort (0 7782 4741; Ao Yai; bungalows 200-600B) Cashew is Ko Chang’s most venerable resort. Choose from cheap A-frame huts or larger, more robust bungalows.
Sawadee (0 7782 0177; Ao Yai; bungalows 300-400B) This is about as upmarket as things get on the little Chang. Dark-wood interiors contrast with attached bathrooms, which are set ablaze with a palette of bright colours. The restaurant serves Thai standards under the stars.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
From central Ranong Town, take a srng·ta·ou (15B) or taxi (50B) to Saphan Plaa. Two boats (150B) leave every morning from mid-October to May; turn up around 9am to see when they’re going, as they don’t usually leave before this hour. During the high season (November to April) there’s a daily noon departure. Boats return to Ranong at 8am the next day. Long-tails can be chartered from Ko Phayam for around 1000B to 1200B.
KO PHAYAM
While technically part of Laem Son National Park ( Click here), little Ko Phayam swims in the sea amid other verdant flecks of sand and limestone. It’s a welcoming place, whose small population is a friendly mix of Thais and Burmese, expats and a few dozen ethnic chow lair (also spelt chao leh; sea gypsies) who earn a living baiting prawns or plucking savoury cashew nuts. Everyone gathers along the two main bays, flanked by strands of flaxen sand, where the soundtrack is a delightful blend of lapping waves and hooting hornbills.
The island has one ‘village’, where you will find the main pier, a couple of simple eateries, small grocery stalls and a bar. From the pier area, motorcycle taxis scoot you to your basic bungalow along the motorcycle ‘highway’, running down the middle of the island.
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Sleeping & Eating
Fan-cooled, rustic bungalows are the staple on Ko Phayam; electricity is usually only available from sunset to 10pm or 11pm. Most of the bungalow operations stay open throughout the year – although the shutters will come down if business becomes too slow. Most spots have attached eateries serving standard backpacker fare.
Vijit (0 7783 4082; www.kohpayam-vijit.com; Ao Khao Fai; bungalows 200-500B; ) Towards the southern end of the bay, Vijit has a dozen basic bungalows around a sandy lot peppered with young trees. Each bungalow has been built in a slightly different style, but all have schmancy indoor/outdoor bathrooms. At high tide, the beach here thins out. Contact the staff for free transport from Ranong.
Bamboo Bungalows (0 7782 0012; Ao Yai; bungalows 300-500B) Opt for the