Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [535]
Mountain Resort (0 7782 0098; Ao Khao Fai; bungalows 350B) Located in a shady palm grove, this has some of the glossiest bungalows on the island – they are also some of the most pleasant. With only a handful of bungalows on offer, you can count on plenty of privacy and lashings of peace and quiet. Mountain Resort is at the northern end of the bay.
Also try:
Mr Gao (0 7787 0222; www.mr-gao-phayam.com; Ao Khao Kwai; bungalows from 350B) Classic bamboo crash pad for couples. Smiles are at a minimum though.
Coconuts (0 7782 0011; Ao Yai; bungalows 350-500B) No-fuss, no-muss housing when Bamboo is full.
Drinking
Beach-bars line both of the island’s strips of sand; most of them look like piles of ocean debris.
Oscar’s (0 7782 4236; Ao Khao Fai; 10am-11pm) Located in the main village, this modern bar looks a little incongruous in its backwater setting. If you’re after late-night (for a remote island) shenanigans, however, it is the place to go – the beer might even be cold.
Getting There & Around
There are daily boats from Saphan Plaa to Ko Phayam’s pier at around 9am and 2pm (150B, 1½ to two hours). From Ko Phayam back to Ranong the boats run at 8am and 1pm. During the high season there may be three runs daily. Long-tail boat charters to the island cost 1500B to 2000B. A charter to Ko Chang is around 1250B.
Motorcycle taxis provide the transport around Ko Phayam; there are no cars or trucks (yet), and roads are pleasantly motorcycle-sized. A ride to your bungalow will cost 50B to 100B. Walking is possible but distances are long – it’s about 45 minutes from the pier to Ao Khao Fai, the nearest bay.
Motorcycle rentals are available at Oscar’s (0 7782 4236; per day approx 250B), the only bar in Ko Phayam’s village – you can’t miss it. Some of the bigger guesthouses might be able to arrange rentals, too.
LAEM SON NATIONAL PARK
Covering 315 sq km of land shared by Ranong and Phang-Nga Provinces, the park (0 7782 4224; www.dnp.go.th; adult/child 400/200B) also includes around 100km of Andaman Sea coastline –the longest protected shore in the country –as well as over 20 idyllic islets. Much of the coast here is covered with mangrove swamps, home to various species of birds, fish, deer and monkeys (including crab-eating macaques), often seen while you’re driving along the road to the park headquarters.
The most accessible beach is Hat Bang Ben, just down the street from the park’s rusty gates. (Note that you only have to pay the national park fee if you enter the park here.) This long, sandy beach, backed by shady casuarinas, is a great place to get wet. From Hat Bang Ben you can see several of the park’s protected islands, including the nearby Ko Kam Yai, Ko Kam Noi, Mu Ko Yipun, Ko Khang Khao and, to the north, Ko Phayam. The park staff can arrange boat trips out to any of these islands for 1500B per boat per day, although private tours can be scouted for a much cheaper rate (see the Wasana Resort, below).
Ko Khang Khao is known for the beach on its northern end that is covered with colourful pebbles. Although underwater visibility isn’t great here, it’s a little better than on Ko Chang as it’s further from the mouth of the Sompaen River. The beach on Ko Kam Noi has relatively clear water for swimming and snorkelling (April is the best month), plus the added bonus of fresh water year-round and plenty of grassy areas for camping. One island on the other side of Ko Kam Yai, which can’t be seen from the beach, is Ko Kam Tok (also called Ko Ao Khao Khwai). It’s only about 200m from Ko Kam Yai, and, like Ko Kam Noi, has a good beach, coral, fresh water and a camping ground. Ko Kam Yai is 14km southwest of Hat Bang Ben. It’s a large island with some accommodation (camping and bungalows), a pretty beach and great