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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [539]

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Ko Bon and Ko Ta Chai are two other popular spots due to the traffic of giant manta rays that gracefully swoop through and use the sites as cleaning stations. Divers aren’t guaranteed to see one (we didn’t) but in the height of high season it’s a safe bet that you’ll see one soar by like a possessed pancake. Day trippers can usually get out to Ko Bon, but most trips make a beeline for the Similan Islands ( Click here).

Choosing a live-aboard may seem tricky at first, especially since there are so many options. There are two important things to consider: your price range and the desired length of your trip. Live-aboards range from backpacker-friendly three-day trips priced at 12,000B, to lavish luxury yachts that charge upwards of 25,000B for three days at sea. Part of the live-aboard magic involves bonding with the other divers on the boat, so beware of schools that regularly return to shore to swap passengers before your expedition is over. Before signing your cheque, ask your dive operator of choice if there are any additional fees (national park permits, equipment rental etc); some schools have lots of fine print to make their prices seem competitive. Check out www.backpackersthailand.com for information about several live-aboard options. If your schedule is flexible, try to book a trip in the later part of the season – your dive tour guide/divemaster will have a better knowledge of the reefs if this is their first season in the Similans. The turnover rate is quite high since the area’s diving is seasonal (starting in late October and ending in May; dates vary depending on the year and the ever-changing park restrictions).

Newbie divers can tackle a smattering of PADI courses as well, although Ko Tao ( Click here), on the gulf coast, is cheaper and the dive sites are closer to shore. A PADI Open Water course here will set you back around 16,000B – Khao Lak is better suited for ‘fun dives’ or divemaster training programs.

Snorkellers can hop on selected dive excursions or live-aboards for a discount of around 40%; otherwise, tour agencies all around town offer even cheaper snorkelling trips starting at around 2500B, but these are generally overcrowded and of poor quality.

Khao Lak has two dozen diving operations vying for your baht. The following dive schools are highly recommended:

IQ Dive (0 7648 5614; www.iq-dive.com; Th Phetkasem) A quality operation that focuses on diving and snorkelling day trips. Diving day trips start at 5100B (all-inclusive). The website has good information about the gamut of live-aboards operating in the region.

Sea Dragon Diver Center (0 7648 5420; www.seadragondivecenter.com; Th Phetkasem) One of the older operations in Khao Lak, Sea Dragon has maintained high standards throughout the years and continues to offer top-notch day trips and live-aboards. The penny-pincher three-day live-aboard goes for 11,800B (not including park fees and equipment).

Similan Diving Safaris (0 7648 5470; www.similan-diving-safaris.com) Joe, the owner, is half-Jamaican, half-Chinese and half-British (you do the math), and approaches life like a Rastafarian Lao Tzu. The speciality here is the high-quality four-day live-aboard (17,800B all-inclusive) that regularly attracts return customers. Knowledgeable staff and amazing food sweeten the deal. As far as live-aboards are concerned, this is probably the best bang for your baht. Day trips are also available. The office is located down the side street that leads to Happy Lagoon.

Wicked Diving (0 7648 5868; www.wickeddiving.com; Hwy 4) Relatively new to the Khao diving scene, Wicked is already garnering oohs and aahs for its seriously awesome staff, well-run excursions and eco-friendly approach to tourism. Ask about the whale shark exploration project. The three-day live-aboard (15,900B; plus equipment, 300B per day, and park fees) is the top seller here. This is a fun and friendly place to do your PADI coursework. Day trips are also available.

Volunteering

There are a couple of disorganised programs in the area that toss around the word tsunami, but if you

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