Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [540]
Sleeping
Khao Lak has a great selection of backpacker digs and top-end resorts – midrange travellers will be forced to choose sides.
BUDGET
For the cheapest sleeps in town, head to Sea Dragon Diver Center (left) and ask about the dorm beds at Tiffy’s Café, which go for 180B per night.
Fasai (0 7648 5867; r 500-700B; ) The best budget choice in Khao Lak, Fasai has immaculate motel-style rooms and smiling staff members who coyly giggle like geishas.
Khaolak Banana (0 7648 5889; www.khaolakbanana.com; r 500-1200B) These adorable little bungalows have swirls painted on the cement floors and sun-filled indoor-outdoor bathrooms. A cute pool with deckchairs sweetens the deal. Ask the other guests how much they are paying before you check in – prices fluctuations are a tad dubious.
Khao Lak Seafood (0 7642 0318; r 600B) Affiliated with the restaurant of the same name, these fresh-faced bungalows are a solid choice for small wallets.
Poseidon Bungalows (0 7644 3258; www.similantour.com; bungalows from 900B) On the other side of the headland near Khao Lak/Lam Ru National Park, about 5km south of Hat Khao Lak, this quiet spot features a gaggle of huts scattered throughout coastal forest.
Also recommended:
PhuKhaoLak (0 7648 5141; bungalows 600-1800B; ) Service oriented operation with comfy huts and great food. A five-minute walk south of central Khao Lak.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Nangthong Bay Resort (0 7648 5088; bungalows 2000-3000B; ) Nangthong is an excellent place to stay and it’s no secret –this place fills up fast. Rooms are designed with a sparse black-and-white decor that feel chic rather than spartan. Terracotta sculptures shoot water into the cerulean swimming pool while contented vacationers watch the tide roll in. All room types are excellent value.
Similana Resort (0 7648 7166; www.similanaresort.com; r from 3000B; ) Each bungalow is a small work of art, with handcrafted furnishings, dark-wood floors, quilted bedcovers, bay windows and private decks with panoramic views. Try the traveller-recommended tree houses nestled in the beach-facing forest.
Khao Lak Merlin (0 7642 8300; www.merlinphuket.com; Hwy 4; r from 6800B; ) This giant resort, 7km south of town, features a maze of swimming pools and colonial-style rooms stretched along six hectares of lush tropical gardens.
Le Meridien Khao Lak Beach & Spa Resort (0 7642 7500; www.khaolak.lemeridien.com; Hwy 4; r/bungalows from 7000B; ) Located along the secluded sands of Bang Sak, Khao Lak’s proliferation of the Le Meridien chain was completely demolished during the tsunami, but today it’s back and better than ever. Epic in size, this rambling resort has hundreds of rooms orbiting several different swimming pools (including a family-friendly pool), and an endless beachfront flanked by tropical gardens and private villas.
Sarojin (0 7642 7900; www.sarojin.com; r from 12,500B; ) The style of this serene retreat mixes Japanese austerity with sumptuous Thai decor, creating a resort that is both elegant and intimate. We especially love the pool, with its stylish lounging huts that hover like islands above the crystal blue water. The Sarojin is located in Bang Sak.
Eating & Drinking
This is no culinary capital, but there are a few local haunts where tourists congregate to rehash the day’s diving yarns. Early-morning divers will be hard-pressed to find a place to grab a bite before 8.30am.
Takua Pa market (5am-6pm) This colourful market 25km north of town is a great place for snacking. A lot of rainforest tours departing from Khao Lak make a stop here before delving into the jungle.
Stémpfer Café (Th Phetkasem; dishes 90-150B; 9am-10pm) Great coffee, tasty sandwiches, and a speedy wireless internet connection – what more could