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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [566]

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giving it a miss, unless you’re a fan of barking dogs and old car parts (most of the sea gypsies have moved).

Nai Han, on the other hand, is cloistered from the tourist frenzy, and hosts a beach full of local snack shacks. Except for the yacht club, there’s not much accommodation with views of the beach. For eating options around Nai Han and Rawai, Click here.

For something a bit quieter, grab a long-tail boat to nearby Ko Heh and stay at the secluded Coral Island (0 7628 1060; www.coralislandresort.com; bungalows from 2000B; ). A lot of snorkelling day trippers visit the island, but after sunset it’s absolutely serene.

Nai Harn Garden Resort (0 7628 8319; www.naiharngardenresort.com; 15/12 Moo 1, Th Viset; r 2000-8000B; ) Back from the beach, on the far side of the reservoir, this resort offers a range of bungalows and villas in a spacious garden setting. The atmosphere is a little suburban cul-de-sac, but standards are high, there are plenty of masseuses at hand –massage is something of a hotel speciality –and prices are fairly reasonable.

Sabana (0 7628 9327; www.sabana-resort.com; 14/53 Moo 1, Th Viset; r 3500-8000B; ) Right on the yacht club’s doorstep, Sabana is a less-expensive stunt double. The decor is all primary colours and Thai motifs, and while the cheaper rooms are a little ordinary, the pricier ‘Thai Sala’ options are beautifully designed. There’s also an on-site spa.

Royal Phuket Yacht Club (0 7638 0200; www.phuket.com/yacht-club; 23/3 Moo 1, Th Viset; r from 7500B; ) When the Le Meridien brand decided to let this property go, the owners changed the ‘le’ to a ‘the’ and kept on goin’. There’s not a yacht in sight, but the resort does feel grand in a country club kinda way. If you can cadge one of the low-season discounts, it really is excellent value.

Evason Phuket Resort (0 7638 1010; www.sixsenses.com; 100 Th Viset; r 7500-38,000B; ) This spa hotel extraordinaire offers copious amounts of luxury. Hip and heavily designed, it is the type of place that appeals to rock stars and moneyed media types. Expect beautiful people tapping away at their wireless gadgetry beside the infinity pool, and immaculately turned-out staff. Room prices – opulent villas top the billing – stretch from pricey to impossibly expensive.

PHUKET TOWN

Phuket Town has a healthy assortment of budget-friendly lodging options. Although you’re nowhere near the beach, foodies will adore the small bundle of kick-ass restaurants ( Click here) tucked between the town’s vibrant architectural remains of its multicultural past. Get the low-down on Phuket Town’s attractions on Click here.

On On Hotel ( Map; 0 7621 1154; 19 Th Phang-Nga; r from 200B; ) This bare-bones classic snapped up a cameo in The Beach (2000), playing a shitty backpacker dive. It’s been a full decade since Leo’s sandy foray, and the travellers are still comin’ to experience the droopy beds, creaking fans and hole-for-a-toilet bathrooms. Smell that? Yup, that’s the gritty stink of Thailand’s original shoestringer spirit.

Phuket International Youth Hostel (off Map; 0 7628 1325; www.phukethostel.com; 73/11 Th Chao Fa, Ao Chalong; dm 250B, r from 600B; ) As a bona fide Hostelling International outfit, this contemporary spot offers comfy sleeps in typically sterile surrounds. ‘Reliable’ is the buzzword here, and while you won’t be dazzled by charming decor, you will sleep safe knowing that you’re not being stalked by bed bugs. It is 7km south of Phuket Town.

Talang Guest House ( Map; 0 7621 4225; talanggh@phuket.ksc.co.th; 37 Th Thalang; r 250-420B; ) This decrepit shophouse is something of an architectural classic. Creature comforts are at a premium, but it bags extra points for character and charm. If you really want to soak up the atmosphere, check in to the 3rd-floor room overlooking the street. It’s a fan room with a large verandah and is ideal for nostalgia junkies.

Crystal Inn ( Map; 0 7625 6789; www.phuketcrystalinn.com; 2/1-10 Soi Surin, Th Phuket; r from 1000B; ) It may not age well, but for now this is a slick midrange option. With its attractive Rothko-esque

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