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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [567]

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murals, it’s a stylish alternative to the midrange dreck nearby.

Sino House ( Map; 0 7622 1398; www.sinohousephuket.com; 1 Th Montri; r 2000-2500B; ) Like a swank Shanghai bordello (in a good way…), Sino House’s rooms are massive and dimly lit, and the attached bathrooms feature handmade ceramic basins and quarter-moon-shaped tubs. Staff members are friendly and speak excellent English.

Metropole Phuket ( Map; 0 7621 5050; www.metropolephuket.com; 1 Soi Surin, Th Montri; r from 3000B; ) The Metropole fancies itself as the big cheese; however, it feels a bit more like the big cheesy. The seahorse fountain is a little kitsch and the rooms are a tad frumpy (think matching drapes and duvets – all floral prints). It’s a decent choice if you need to be in central Phuket Town, and the top-floor views are pretty darn cool.

Eating & Drinking

Choosing a restaurant on Phuket can be a mind-numbing task. At the top of the totem pole is the island’s much-lauded haute cuisine – designer eats created by a legion of world-class chefs. Patong ( Click here) has a slew of dining all-stars, as do the high-end resorts in Bang Thao (right) and Surin (opposite) to the north.

The swarms of Thai seafood restaurants are a must. You’ll find at least one on every beach (although avoid the overpriced schlock in Patong and Karon) serving fresh crab, fish and prawns plucked directly from the sea. You can often choose your platter as it swims around a tank.

And then there’s the street food. You can find it in night markets, in dark sweaty soi and in steamy sand-covered shacks along the beach. Turn off that inner monologue and go for the gusto without fearing the gastro. Muslim fried chicken and Isan’s sôm âm (spicy papaya salad) are usually safe and delicious bets, although why not go for the eyeball soup that you’ve been staring at (and that’s been looking back at you).

Many of Phuket’s sit-down restaurants tread a fine line between restaurant and bar. It’s not uncommon to find a gang of tourists grabbing beers beside a family gorging on wholesome platters of pát tai noodles. If you’re looking to crank things up a notch and get down with your dirt-ay self, check out Click here for the island’s top nightclubs and dance-oriented bars.

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TOP FIVE SPOTS FOR A SUNDOWNER COCKTAIL

Ask any local expat: sipping sundowner cocktails is an official sport on Phuket. Any west-facing joint will do the trick, but after some serious field research, we’ve found five seriously special spots to enjoy that 6pm snifter:

Rockfish (opposite)

White Box ( Click here)

After Beach Bar ( Click here)

Watermark ( Click here)

360 (opposite)

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NORTHERN BEACHES

If you’re staying along Phuket’s northern beaches, there are dozens of excellent eating options within arm’s reach.

Hat Nai Yang, Hat Mai Khao & Hat Nai Thon

Chao Lay Bistro (0 7620 5500; 9 Moo 4, Tambon Sakhu; dishes from 100B; noon-10.30pm) Tasty Thai food in a hip, open-air dining room. Try the pá·nang tá·lair, prawns or squid in red curry with lime leaves and coconut milk.

Indigo Pearl (0 7632 7006; brunch 1300-1600B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) On Sunday, do not pass Go, do not collect $200 (you won’t need to – the bill will be way less); head directly to Indigo Pearl for the ultimate in weekend brunching. Every delicious dish imaginable –sushi, foie gras, roast lamb, green curry, crab legs, fried chicken, pasta, fondue, chocolate cake, ice cream – is at your disposal in the culinary labyrinth that leads to your martini-covered table. This will be a meal you won’t soon forget.

Bang Thao

Despite what some local hoteliers would have you believe, there is good food to be had outside the confines of Bang Thao’s luxury hotels.

Lotus Restaurant ( Map; dishes 50-120B; lunch & dinner) An open-walled eatery 500m west of the entrance to Banyan Tree Phuket, this is the first in a row of beachside Thai and seafood restaurants that stretches to the south. It’s clean, breezy and friendly, and has an amazing assortment of live crab, lobster, shrimp, fish and other visual and culinary delights

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