Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [578]
If you want to get to Railay, head to Ao Nang by taxi (100B) or catch a long-tail boat from Krabi’s Khong Kha pier to Hat Rai Leh East from 7.45am to 6pm (200B, 45 minutes); from here it is only a five-minute walk along a paved path to the more appealing Hat Rai Leh West. The boatmen will wait until they can fill a boat with 10 people before they leave; if you want to go before then you can charter the whole boat for 2000B.
BUS
With fewer eager touts and guaranteed departure times, taking a government bus from the Krabi bus terminal (0 7561 1804; cnr Th Utarakit & Hwy 4) in nearby Talat Kao, about 4km from Krabi, is an altogether more relaxing option than taking a private bus. Air-con government buses leave for Bangkok (700B, 12 hours) at 7am, 4pm and 5.30pm. There’s a very plush 24-seat VIP bus to Bangkok (1100B) departing at 5.30pm daily. From Bangkok’s southern bus terminal, buses leave at 7.30am and between 7pm and 8pm. Regular, air-con government buses also service Hat Yai (170B to 210B, three hours), Phang-Nga (70B to 80B, two hours), Phuket (120B to 140B, 3½ hours), Surat Thani (130B to 150B, 2½ hours) and Trang (100B, two hours).
Dozens of travel agencies in Krabi run air-con minivans and VIP buses to popular tourist centres throughout southern Thailand, but staff can be very pushy and you may end up crammed cheek to jowl with other backpackers.
MINIVAN
Minivans are booked through travel agencies in town. Prices can vary widely; shop around to get an idea. Some sample fares are Ao Leuk (50B, one hour), Hat Yai (280B, three hours), Ko Lanta (250B, 1½ hours), Trang (280B, two hours) and Satun (400B, five hours). Minivans leave when full.
srng•ta•ou
Useful srng·ta·ou run from the bus station to central Krabi and on to Hat Noppharat Thara (40B), Ao Nang (40B) and the Shell Cemetery at Ao Nam Mao (50B). There are services from 6am to 6.30pm. In the high season there are less frequent services until 10pm for 70B. For Ao Leuk (50B, one hour) there are frequent srng·ta·ou from the corner of Th Phattana and Th Phruksauthit; the last service leaves at around 3pm. Occasional srng·ta·ou to Wat Tham Seua leave from opposite the 7-Eleven on Th Maharat and cost 20B.
Getting Around
Krabi Town is easy to explore on foot, but the bus terminal and airport are both a long way from the centre. A taxi from the airport to town will cost 350B to 500B. In the reverse direction, taxis or túk-túk cost 400B. Agencies in town can also arrange minivans to the airport for 150B. Srng·ta·ou between the bus terminal and downtown Krabi cost 20B.
CAR & MOTORCYCLE
Most of the travel agencies and guesthouses in town can rent you a Honda Dream motorcycle for around 150B per day. Yellow House Internet & Tour (0 7562 2809; 5 Th Chao Fa) hires out reliable bikes and provides helmets. A few of the travel agencies along Th Utarakit rent out small 4WDs for 1200B to 2000B per day.
KHAO PHANOM BENCHA NATIONAL PARK
This 50-sq-km national park (admission 400B) protects a dramatic area of virgin rainforest along the spine of 1350m-high Khao Phanom Bencha, just 20km north of Krabi. The name means ‘Five-Point Prostration Mountain’, a reference to the mountain’s profile, which resembles a person prostrate in prayer, with hands, knees and head touching the ground.
The park is full of scenic waterfalls, including the 11-tiered Nam Tok Huay To, just 500m from the park headquarters. Close by and almost as dramatic are Nam Tok Huay Sadeh and Nam Tok Khlong Haeng. On the way into the park you can visit Tham Khao Pheung, a fantastic cave with shimmering mineral stalactites and stalagmites. Numerous trails snake through the park providing excellent opportunities for hiking. You can discover lesser-known streams and waterfalls, too.
Clouded leopards, black panthers, tigers, Asiatic black bears, barking deer, serow, Malayan tapirs, leaf monkeys, gibbons and various tropical birds – including the helmeted hornbill, argus pheasant and extremely rare Gurney’s pitta