Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [579]
There is no public transport to the park, and it doesn’t offer any lodging or eating options. But the park is an easy day trip from Krabi by hired motorcycle; just follow the signposted turn-off from Hwy 4. Alternatively, you can hire a túk-túk for around 400B return.
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AO NANG
pop 12,400
Don’t let the resorts and package holiday deals fool you. Ao Nang isn’t a destination, it’s an uninspired link in the transport chain (as the zillions of travel agencies in town will attest). The town’s main street, which makes an ‘L’ as it hits the sand, feels like one giant mall that hawks cheesy souvenirs and tailored suits. Every evening, the blur of neon lights competes with the setting sun (the spectacular sunset usually wins) as cocktails are blended street-side and locals wave moo·ay tai tickets to hungry passers-through.
Ao Nang serves as the main jumping-off point for Railay, only a 20-minute long-tail ride away. For your money, Railay is a heaps nicer place to stay. Ao Nang is appealing, however, if you want to partake in popular island-hopping tours or sea-kayaking adventures, as most companies are based here. Plus, if having booze with meals is paramount, Ao Nang will do a better job quenching your thirst: many of Railay’s resorts are Muslim-owned and don’t serve alcohol in their restaurants (although you can buy beer at the local store and take it into restaurants that don’t serve alcohol).
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Orientation & Information
Locals give directions using the McDonald’s and Burger King as landmarks, so it’s safe to say that tourists will find all of life’s creatures comforts in Ao Nang – internet aplenty, ATMs, foreign-exchange windows etc. For police and medical attention, it is best to head to Krabi Town. Due to the high influx of travel agencies, finding friendly and polite service is easier here as the competition is fierce amongst businesses. Feel free to shop around and bargain – although you’ll rarely find discounts on boat services.
Hwy 4203 heads west into town, runs north along the beach for about 500m and then heads back inland for a bit before curving towards the coast again at Hat Noppharat Thara.
Sights
About 9km east of Ao Nang at the western end of Ao Nam Mao is the Shell Cemetery (admission 50B; 8.30am-4.30pm), also known as Gastropod Fossil or Su-San Hoi. Here you can see giant slabs formed from millions of tiny 75-million-year-old fossil shells. There’s a small visitor centre with geological displays and various stalls selling snacks. Public transport from Ao Nang costs around 30B.
Activities
Loads of activities are possible at Ao Nang, and children under 12 typically get a 50% discount. Elephant trekking is a popular activity, and most tour operators arrange jungle excursions. Before you participate, however, make sure the elephants don’t look abused.
KAYAKING
At least seven companies offer sea-kayaking tours to mangroves and islands around Ao Nang. Popular destinations include the lofty sea cliffs and wildlife-filled mangroves at Ao Thalane (half/full day 1000/1500B), and to the sea caves and 2000- to 3000-year-old paintings at Ban Bho Tho (1500B) – the caves are also filled with layers of archaeological shell formations. All rates include lunch, fruit, drinking water, sea kayaks and guides. Sea Canoe Thailand (0 7569 5387) and Ao Nang Group (0 7563 7660/1) are two recommended companies.
DIVING & SNORKELLING
Ao Nang has numerous dive schools offering trips to dive sites at nearby Railay’s Laem Phra Nang. It costs about 2200B for two dives. Ko Mae Urai is one of the more unique local dives, with two submarine tunnels lined with soft and hard corals. Other trips run further afield to sites around Ko Phi-Phi or Hin Daeng and Hin Muang, southwest of Ko Lanta (around 4000B for two dives). A PADI Open Water course will set you back 15,000B to 18,000B. Reliable dive schools include Phra Nang Divers (0 7563 7064; www.pndivers.com) and Aqua Vision Dive Center (0 7563 7415; www.aqua-vision.net). Dive companies can also