Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [580]
Courses
About 10km from Ao Nang between Wat Sai Thai and Ao Nam Mao, Krabi Thai Cookery School (0 7569 5133; www.thaicookeryschool.net; 269 Moo 2, Ao Nang, Rte 4204) offers one-day Thai-cooking courses for 1000B; transfers are included in the price.
Tours
Any agency worth its salt can book you on one of the popular four- or five-island tours (see the boxed text, Click here), which cost between 400B and 500B for a day trip. Several tour agencies offer tours to Khlong Thom, including visits to freshwater pools, hot springs and the Wat Khlong Thom Museum; the price per adult/child is 750/400B. So-called ‘mystery tours’ visit local snake farms, rural villages, crystal pools and rubber, pineapple, banana and papaya plantations, and cost around 900/450B per adult/child. Tour agencies also offer trips to attractions around Ao Phang-Nga and to a number of dubious animal shows around Ao Nang.
You can also arrange day tours to Ko Phi-Phi on the Ao Nang Princess (per adult/child 1100/850B). The boat leaves from the Hat Noppharat Thara National Park headquarters at 9am and visits Bamboo Island, Phi-Phi Don and Phi-Phi Leh. Free transfers from Ao Nang to Hat Noppharat Thara are included in the price.
* * *
ISLAND HOP ‘TIL YOU DROP
A must-do activity is a half- or full-day island tour. You get to zoom around on a long-tail boat to several green isles that are fringed by luscious beaches, snorkel around vibrant coral, and explore impressive caves and cliffs – it’s a perfect day out.
Tours visit Ko Hua Khwan (Chicken Island), with excellent snorkelling reefs and a rock formation that looks surprisingly like poultry; Ko Poda, with a handsome stretch of white beach; and Ko Taloo, which is a tall rock formation that has an underwater swim-through. These trips also take in Tham Phra Nang (Princess Cave), the location of a ‘princess’s spirit house’ that’s revered by locals; Ko Hong, with a hidden lagoon surrounded by cliffs; Ko Lading, which is a major bird’s-nest collection point and has sublime beaches; and Ko Daeng, where you’ll find more great snorkelling. Ko Rai and Ko Pakiba are other island gems often tacked onto a tour.
From Ao Nang you can charter a long-tail from the Ao Nang Longtail Boat Service (0 7569 5474; www.aonanglongtailboatservice.com) to Ko Hong, Ko Lading and Ko Daeng (2500B) or to Ko Poda and Chicken Island with Tam Phra Nang (2000B). Prices are listed on the ‘Boat Service’ office window and are for a maximum of six people. You’ll need your own gear. Otherwise pay more for a five-island all-inclusive tour at tour companies found all over Ao Nang, Railay and Krabi (around 850B per person). If you’re willing to pay 200B to 400B extra you can even go by speedboat, which gives you more time to frolic at each destination.
* * *
Sleeping
Ao Nang has become rather overdeveloped in recent years and the strip is creeping upmarket, though a few budget options are hanging on further back from the seafront near the McDonald’s (cringe!). Prices at all these places drop by 50% during the low season.
BUDGET
There are loads of under-1000B spots lining the main road into town; as you venture away from the beach the price goes down and the quality goes up.
Bernie’s Place (0 7563 7093; r 200-600B) Bernie’s will excite the penniless in high season – rooms max out at just 600B. You’ll have to share a bathroom, and the mattresses are droopy, but the rooms themselves are actually quite decent considering the price. The big bar and backpacker-priced buffets (all you can eat for 250B) foster a burgeoning travellers’ vibe.
J Hotel (0 7563 7878; j_hotelo@hotmail.com; r 350-1800B; ) J Mansion’s sister property (owned by the same friendly family) is nearly as good as the original, and it’s just up the street. Rooms in an old shophouse are huge, atmospheric and endearingly shabby chic. The staff isn’t as friendly here, which is probably why there are rooms available.
Panan (0 7563 8105; r 400-500B; ) Crisp white rooms are small but cooled by generous amounts of air-con. Watch