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Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [581]

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satellite TV or glimpse at fleeting views of the sea. Overall it’s a great pick for the price.

J Mansion (0 7563 7876, 7569 5128; j_mansion10@hotmail.com; r 800-1000B; ) You know a place is doing something right when it’s fully booked in low season. Rooms at J Mansion are big and spotless and let in lots of light; top-floor digs have sea views. The rooftop is the best asset –head up here with a few beers at sunset and check out fabulous views across to Railay (constant breezes make it almost as cool as swimming in a pool). Advance bookings are an absolute must, as frequent tour groups gobble up most of the hotel space. J Mansion also runs an honest, fairly priced travel agency and does day trips to Ko Phi-Phi.

MIDRANGE & TOP END

North of the McDonald’s (away from the beach), travellers will find several brand-new buildings that house various high-quality hotel rooms. They’re all pretty much the same – spotless rooms, TV, air-con and wi-fi – though Goodwill (www.aonanggoodwill; r 1550B) is a safe bet if you’re feeling indecisive. Lately, the midrange and top-end resorts outside of Ao Nang’s core (1km to 4km away) are earning higher marks than the spots in the town. Click here for a couple of options; construction is booming though, so a quick web search is bound to reveal more.

Somkiet Buri Resort (0 7563 7320; www.somkietburi.com; r 2000-3000B; ) This place just might inspire you to slip into a yoga pose. The lush jungle grounds are filled with ferns and orchids, while lagoons, streams and meandering wooden walkways guide you to the 26 large and creatively designed rooms. A great swimming pool is set amid it all – balconies either face this pool or a peaceful pond. The service everywhere is first rate.

Vogue Phranang Bay Resort & Spa (0 7563 7635; www.vogueresort.com; r 2100-6800B; ) Rooms have big windows – ask for one facing the sea – and mix tiles and wooden floors in a Zen architectural collage. Baths have separate showers (complete with doors – rare here). The only fault was the softness of the mattress. We really liked the grounds, however; they were peaceful with lots of jungle foliage. There is a big round swimming pool, with sea and sunset views.

Phra Nang Inn (0 7563 7130; phranang@sun.phuket.ksc.co.th; r incl breakfast 2300-5500B; ) The beautiful interior decor – a unique bamboo theme with eclectic designs in shell and tilework – is Phra Nang’s forte. There are two pools, and a second, similarly designed branch is across the road from the original.

Krabi Resort (0 7563 7030, in Bangkok 0 2208 9165; www.krabiresort.com; r/bungalows 4200-8900B; ) The original Ao Nang luxury resort is ageing gracefully, maintaining quality rooms and luxury bungalows on peaceful, landscaped grounds, some right near the beach. There is an on-site dive school, a restaurant and a bar.

Golden Beach Resort (0 7563 7870-4; www.krabigoldenbeach.com; r 4500-6000B, bungalows 6000-10,000B; ) This swanky modern resort is made up of large hotel blocks and stylish bungalows arranged in a tidy garden around a big pool. The outdoor restaurant is lit up like a Christmas tree at night and hosts slightly cheesy live music (think electric keyboards and ’80s covers).

Also recommended:

Wanna’s Place (0 7563 7322; www.wannasplace.com; r 1875-1975B, bungalows 2290-2390B; ) Popular but not the pick of the litter.

Aonang Villa Resort (0 7563 7270; www.aonangvillaresort.com; r 3400-7500B; ) A swank seaside affair.

Eating

At the western end of the beach is Soi Sunset, a narrow alley housing a number of identical seafood restaurants. They all have bamboo seating abutting the ocean, and model boats at the entrance showing off the day’s catch.

Wanna’s Restaurant (dishes 60-190B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Casual and inexpensive, it’s worth stopping by for the variety of food on offer – everything from burgers to cheese selections to Swiss specialities, along with Thai cuisine and breakfast.

Sala Bua & Lo Spuntino (0 7563 7110; dishes 80-520B; 10am-11pm) Located deep within the bustle of ‘Seafood Street’, this excellent ocean-facing restaurant serves

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