Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [597]
TRANG PROVINCE
With its own set of jagged jungly karst formations and lonely islets in the crystalline sea, Trang feels like ‘Krabi Lite’. Lately, travellers are getting wise to the province’s hidden charms, so it won’t be long before the region experiences a tourist boom like neighbouring Krabi did several years back. Trang’s shining stars are the constellation of fabled offshore isles known simply as the Trang Islands.
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TRANG TOWN
pop 64,700
A glorified launch pad for the Trang Islands of Hat Chao Mai National Park nearby, humble Trang is short on attractions. Foodies will find a gaggle of excellent local markets and Hokkien coffeehouses dotting the town’s mishmash of imported architectural styles. Travellers with the Trang Islands in mind should swing through – local travel agencies are dedicated to helping you hop to your island of choice as fast as possible. Many of the Trang Island resorts maintain satellite offices here that can assist with bookings and transfers to islands.
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Information
There are several banks on Th Praram VI between the train station and the clock tower.
Ani’s (08 1397 4574; 285 Th Ratchadamnoen; 9am-10pm) Stock up on English- and European-language titles here.
Post office (cnr Th Praram VI & Th Kantang) Also sells CAT cards for international phone calls.
TAT office (0 7521 5867; tattrang@tat.or.th; Th Ruenrom) New tourist office located near the night market.
Tosit (285 Th Visetkul; per hr 20B) Fast computers, knowledgeable staff and a cafe serving real coffee.
Sights
Trang is more of a business centre than a tourist town. Wat Tantayaphirom (Th Tha Klang) has a huge white chedi (stupa) enshrining a footprint of the Buddha that’s mildly interesting. The Chinese Meunram Temple, between Soi 1 and Soi 3, sometimes sponsors performances of southern Thai shadow theatre. It’s also worth strolling around the large wet & dry markets on Th Ratchadamnoen and Th Sathani.
Activities
Boat trips to the mythical Trang Islands in Hat Chao Mai National Park start at 800B per person and take in Ko Muk, Ko Cheuk and Ko Kradan, with lunch and drinks. National-park fees are extra. There are also sea-kayaking tours to Tham Chao Mai (850B), where you can explore mangrove forests and canoe under commanding stalactites. Snorkelling trips to Ko Rok (1300B to 1500B) can also be arranged by most agencies. For a cultural fix you can spend a day trekking in the Khao Banthat Mountains to visit villages of the Sa Kai mountain people (1400B).
Sleeping & Eating
Ko Teng Hotel (0 7521 8148; 77-79 Th Praram VI; r 180-300B; ) The undisputed king of backpacker lodgings in Trang. Don’t forget to pack your adventurous spirit, ’cause if you left it on the bus, these slightly grungy rooms will get you down.
My Friend (0 7522 5447; 25/17-20 Th Sathani; r 430B; ) Comfortable modern rooms sport air-con and TV, but not all have windows – check first. There are some quirky decorative flourishes (weird Greek pillars and an oddly mounted aquarium) that will definitely make you grin.
Night Market (noodles per bowl 20B) This excellent market has stalls selling the local delicacy of kà·nm jeen (Chinese noodles with curry) – you can pick from three spicy curry sauces and spruce up your soup with chopped vegetables and leaves.
Trang is famous for its coffee shops (ráhn gah·faa or ráhn goh-pée), which are usually run by Hokkien Chinese. These shops serve real filtered coffee along with a variety of snacks, typically Chinese buns and dumplings, Trang-style sweets or barbecued pork. When you order coffee in these places, be sure to use the Hokkien word goh-pée rather than the Thai gah·faa, otherwise you may end up with Nescafé. Try Sin Ocha Bakery (Th Sathani; dishes 25-50B) next