Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [598]
Getting There & Away
AIR
THAI and Air Asia operate regular flights from Bangkok to Trang (around 3000B), but there have been some problems with landing at this airport in rain. The THAI office (0 7521 9923; 199/2 Th Visetkul) is open weekdays only. The airport is 4km south of Trang; air-con minivans meet flights and charge 80B to town. In the reverse direction a taxi or túk-túk will cost 100B to 150B.
BUS
Public buses leave from the well-organised bus terminal (Th Huay Yot). Air-con buses from Trang to Bangkok cost 600B to 700B (12 hours, morning and afternoon). More comfortable are the VIP 24-seater buses at 5pm and 5.30pm (1050B). From Bangkok, VIP/air-con buses leave between 6.30pm and 7pm. Buses to Satun (130B) and La-Ngu depart from the southern bus terminal on Th Ratsada. Other services include Hat Yai (110B to 135B, three hours), Krabi (130B to 145B, two hours) and Phuket (240B to 265B, four hours).
MINIVAN & SHARE TAXI
There are share taxis to Krabi (180B, two hours) and air-con minivans to Hat Yai (160B, two hours) from offices just west of the Trang bus terminal. Hourly vans to Surat Thani (200B, 2½ hours) leave from a depot (Th Tha Klang), just before Th Tha Klang crosses the railway tracks. There are also departures directly to Ko Samui (220B) and Ko Pha-Ngan (320B) every day at 12.30pm and 3pm from the same depot. KK Tour & Travel (0 7521 1198; 40 Th Sathani), opposite the train station, has several daily air-con vans to Ko Lanta (220B, two hours).
Local share taxis can be hired for custom trips from depots; sample fares include 500B to Pak Meng, 700B to Hat Yao or Hat Chang Lang, and 800B to Hat Samran.
Local transport is mainly by air-con minivan rather than srng·ta·ou. For Ko Sukorn there are air-con vans from Th Ratsada to the jetty at Palian (60B). Alternatively, take a van to Yan Ta Khao (30B) and change to a Ban Ta Seh srng·ta·ou (50B); boats can be chartered on the shore at Ta Seh.
TRAIN
Only two trains go all the way from Bangkok to Trang: the express 83, which leaves from Bangkok’s Hualamphong station at 5.05pm and arrives in Trang at 7.35am the next day; and the rapid 167, which leaves from Hualamphong station at 6.20pm, arriving in Trang at 10.11am. From Trang, trains leave at 1.45pm and 5.30pm. Fares are 1280/731B for a 1st-/2nd-class air-con sleeper and 521B for a 2nd-class (fan) sleeper.
Getting Around
Túk-túks can be found near the intersection of Th Praram VI and Th Kantang, and charge 30B for local trips. Motorcycles can be rented at travel agencies or at Ani’s (08 1397 4574; 285 Th Ratchadamnoen; 9am-10pm) for about 200B per day. Most agencies can also help you arrange car rental for around 1100B to 1500B per day.
TRANG BEACHES
Trang Province’s string of quiet beaches are the jumping-off points for the Trang Islands floating in the turquoise waters of the Andaman Sea.
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Hat Pak Meng
Thirty-nine kilometres from Trang in Sikao District, Hat Pak Meng serves as the main jumping-off point for several of the Trang Islands. There’s a wild-looking stretch of coastline here, with a couple of so-so pockets of sand, but much of the seashore is rather marred by a big concrete sea wall. The main pier is at the northern end of the beach, where Rte 4162 meets the coast. There are good fresh seafood restaurants in the vicinity.
Tour agencies at the jetty and the Lay Trang Resort organise one-day boat tours to Ko Muk, Tham Morakot (Emerald Cave, on Ko Muk), Ko Cheuk, Ko Ma and Ko Kradan for 750B per person (minimum three people), including lunch and beverages. There are also snorkelling day tours to Ko Ngai (650B) and Ko Rok (1000B to 1200B, plus national- park fees).
Run by a staunch supporter of the Thai royal family, Lay Trang Resort (0 7527 4027/8; www.laytrang.com; bungalows 1000-1500B; ) boasts smart bungalows in a tidy garden and a very good patio restaurant. The hard-to-miss Yok Ya Restaurant (dishes 40-300B),