Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [608]
For Pulau Langkawi in Malaysia, boats leave from Tammalang pier daily at 9.30am, 1.30pm and 4pm (250B, 1½ hours). In the reverse direction, boats leave Pulau Langkawi at 8.30am, 12.30pm and 4pm, and cost RM$27. Remember that there is a one-hour time difference between Thailand and Malaysia.
BUS
Buses to Bangkok leave from a small depot on Th Hatthakham Seuksa, just east of the centre. Air-con services (820B, 14 hours) leave at 7am and 2.30pm. A single VIP bus leaves at 4.30pm (1030B). Ordinary and air-con buses to Hat Yai (80B, two hours) and Trang (100B, 1½ hours) leave regularly from in front of the 7-Eleven on Th Satun Thanee.
MINIVAN & SHARE TAXI
There are regular vans to the train station in Hat Yai (150B, one hour) from a depot on Th Sulakanukoon. Occasional minivans run to Trang, but buses are much more frequent. If you’re arriving by boat at Tammalang pier, there are direct air-con vans to Hat Yai (180B), Hat Yai airport (220B) and Trang (220B).
Share taxis can be hired to Pak Bara (400B, 45 minutes) or Hat Yai (400B, one hour).
Getting Around
Small orange sŏrng·ta·ou (also spelt swngthew; pick-up trucks) to Tammalang pier (for boats to Malaysia) cost 50B and leave every 20 minutes or so between 8am and 5pm from a depot opposite the Thai Ferry Centre. A motorcycle taxi from the same area costs 60B.
PAK BARA
Satun’s quiet coastline has a few small towns that serve as jumping-off points for the islands in the Ko Phetra and Ko Tarutao Marine National Parks, but the fishing community of Pak Bara is the main point of transit. There is a sense of anticipation in the air here as new businesses open their doors and transport links continue to expand. Plans are in the works to cut a deep-water channel across the peninsula from Pak Bara to Songkhla that would eliminate the need for vessels to travel down to Singapore when passing from Thailand’s gulf to the Andaman Sea. If these plans are realised, Pak Bara and its new deep-water seaport will become an important point on the map. Currently, there are no ATMs in Pak Bara (the closest one is in La-Ngu).
Travellers planning to visit the quieter islands of the Ko Tarutao National Park should stop by the park headquarters (0 7478 3485) just behind the pier, where you can book accommodation and obtain permission for camping. Travel agencies at the pier will gladly sell you a ticket to wherever you want to go, and many of these businesses also offer kayaking and snorkelling day trips (from 1500B).
We wouldn’t recommend putting Pak Bara on your trip’s itinerary, but if you get stuck in town, there are a couple of places to stay, including Best House Resort (0 7578 3058; bungalows 590B; ), which is the closest to the pier. The friendly owner manages a cluster of bungalows surrounding a pond. If you’re waiting for a speedboat to one of the islands, there are a few Muslim restaurants huddling around the pier – the best one is next to Andrew Tour.
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Getting There & Away
There are hourly minibuses from Hat Yai (southern Thailand’s main transport hub) to the pier at Pak Bara (150B, two hours) between 7am and 4pm. They also operate a reverse service. A private taxi from Hat Yai will cost roughly 1500B. A taxi from Trang costs 600B, and a taxi from Satun will set you back around 400B. There are also vans to Trang (250B, 1½ hours) and Krabi (400B, four hours).
The following ferry information is relevant in high season only (1 November to 15 May); a skeleton crew of slow ferries operates during low season. If you are on the mainland and want to get to Ko Lipe, Ko Bulon Leh or one of the other islands nearby, you must pass through Pak Bara. If you are already on an island (like Ko Lanta, Ko Phi-Phi or Ko Ngai)