Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [609]
KO PHETRA MARINE NATIONAL PARK
Often outshone by the Ko Tarutao Marine National Park next door, Ko Phetra Marine National Park (0 7478 1582; adult/child 400/200B) is a stunning archipelago that includes Ko Khao Yai, Ko Lao Liang ( Click here), Ko Bulon Leh (the park’s only island with privately run accommodation; Click here) and 19 other furry green isles.
The park headquarters is located 3km southeast of Pak Bara at Ao Nun. Make sure to stop by if you plan on pitching a tent on one of the park’s deserted islands.
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Ko Bulon Leh
Floating in the sea between the Trang Islands and Ko Tarutao Marine Park, Ko Bulon Leh (also called Bulon) is surrounded by crystal-clear waters that mingle with its powder-soft beaches. The island is in that perfect state of limbo where it’s developed enough to offer comfortable facilities, yet not so popular that you have to fight for your own patch of sand.
The southern part of the island is where you’ll find scenic Mango Bay, while in the north there is a rocky bay that’s home to small settlements of chow lair (also spelt chao leh). The island is perfect for hiking – the interior is interlaced with tracks and trails lined with rubber plantations that are thick with birds, and you can reach most places on the island within half an hour. There are also some bizarre rock formations along the coastline reminiscent of a Salvador Dalí dream. A fine golden-sand beach runs along the eastern coast, with good coral reefs immediately offshore.
Resorts can arrange snorkelling trips to other islands in the Ko Bulon group for around 900B, and fishing trips for 300B per hour. You can also hire masks and snorkels (100B), fins (70B) and sea kayaks (150B per hour).
SLEEPING & EATING
Most places here shut down in the rainy season. There are a few local restaurants and a small shop in the Muslim village next to Bulon Viewpoint.
Bulone Resort (08 1897 9084; www.bulone-resort.com; bungalows 600-1200B) My Bulone has a first name, it’s b-e-a-c-h…(sorry, we couldn’t resist). The pick of the bunch when it comes to budget options, this simple affair has airy cottages in various sizes, all with plenty of shade under the tall casuarinas that line the northern part of the beach.
Pansand Resort (0 7521 8035; www.pansand-resort.com; 82-84 Th Visetkul; cottages incl breakfast 1000-1700B) Pansand sits on the island’s prime bit of beach. There are amiable colonial-style bungalows, and prim cottages lined up along green grounds. The restaurant here is great and staff can arrange snorkelling trips to White Rock Island (1500B for up to eight people). It’s popular – call ahead.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
As the number of ferries continues to expand during high season, it is best to contact your resort on the island for the most up-to-date transport information. A speedboat departs Pak Bara every day at 1.30pm (400B) and arrives on the island at around 3pm. Boats in the reverse direction leave at 9am. Ferries to Ko Bulon Leh from Ko Lipe depart at 2.30pm (550B); ferries to Ko Lipe from Ko Bulon Leh depart at 10am. Additional speedboat services between Ko Lipe and Ko Bulon Leh are available when there is enough demand.
KO TARUTAO MARINE NATIONAL PARK
Like with any good secret, it’s only a matter of time before someone lets the cat out of the bag. In this case, that someone was a producer from Survivor, America’s eminent reality show, who chose this stunning marine park for the fifth instalment of the hit series. Fortunately, stringent Thai law has protected Ko Tarutao Marine National Park (0 7478 1285; adult/child 400/200B; Nov–mid-May) from preying developers – the national park is still one of the most exquisite