Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [611]
Long-tails can be hired from the jetty at Ao Pante Malacca for trips to Tham Jara Khae or Ao Son for around 600B. To Ao Taloh Udang you’ll pay about 1500B for a round trip.
Ko Khai & Ko Klang
Between Ko Tarutao and Ko Adang is a small cluster of three islands collectively known as Muu Ko Klang (Middle Island Group). Most interesting is Ko Khai, which has a very neat white-sand beach and a scenic rock arch. The coral here has suffered a bit due to boat anchors, but both Ko Khai and Ko Klang have crystal-clear water for swimming. You can get here by chartered long-tail from Ao Pante Malacca on Ko Tarutao, or from Ko Lipe; a round-trip fare will cost around 1500B from either end.
Ko Lipe
If you’re yearning to take that quintessential photograph of a tangerine long-tail bobbing along in a perfect turquoise sea, then make a beeline to Ko Lipe, and get here fast! Over the last two years, developers have snared most of the island’s oceanfront property (and a good amount of the scraggly jungle too). Although little Lipe still clings to its laid-back vibe, the island’s chow lair village is shrinking, new resorts are popping up and there’s starting to be a bit of a rubbish problem. We’re afraid that it won’t be long before vacationers rename the island ‘mini Ko Phi-Phi’…
ORIENTATION
Ko Lipe is a tiny boomerang-shaped island with three main beaches: Sunset Beach, Sunrise Beach and Hat Pattaya, which has a small immigration office during high season ( Click here). A series of paved pathways criss-cross the island, connecting all three strips of sand – it is best to bring a torch at night as sometimes these roads can be confusing. Castaway Resort ( Click here) has the best map of the island – a charming faux treasure map.
INFORMATION
At the time of research, Ko Lipe still did not have an ATM. Some midrange and high-end resorts accept credits cards but it’s better to bring lots of baht, just to be on the safe side. The island also does not have a 7-Eleven (see the boxed text, opposite), so the local convenience shops tend to gouge customers with highly inflated prices – buy your sunscreen before arriving on Ko Lipe.
When it comes to getting transportation information or booking tours, find the girl named Boi. She owns Friends Travel (Boi’s Travel; 08 9464 5854; www.kohlipethailand.com), located on the paved road between Hat Pattaya and Sunrise Beach. She also sells some fantastic homemade Ko Lipe souvenirs.
There is a threat of dengue fever on Ko Lipe; Click here for more information.
ACTIVITIES
If you have your sights set on exploring nearby Ko Adang or Ko Rawi ( Click here), you can do it under your own steam (long-tail rides cost 50B each way) or you can join up with a tour (see right).
Divers with a Lipe bias will tell you that there are dozens of sites in the area. What they won’t tell you is that the visibility can be pretty hit-and-miss – sometimes the water is crystal-clear, at other times hard currents drag in clouds of sand. Nevertheless, Ko Lipe is a chilled-out place to do some scuba – there aren’t zillions of divers (like on Phuket or Ko Tao) and the reefs are comparatively unharmed. The region’s top dive spots include Eight Mile Rock, a submerged pinnacle that lures large pelagic fish; the Yong Hua Shipwreck, now covered in marine growth; and Ko Bu Tang, with its aptly named Stingray City site. There are also pleasant diving spots dotting the channel between Ko Adang and Ko Rawi.
Most diving schools run trips from early November to mid-May and charge around 2200B to 2500B for a two-dive excursion. A PADI Open Water course will set you back around 12,000B to 13,500B (that’s about 2500B more expensive than the schools on Ko Tao; Click here)
The following dive operators are recommended, using proper boats rather than long-tails:
Forra Diving (08 4407 5691; www.forradiving.com) Friendly French-run school with an office on Sunrise and