Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [612]
Ocean Pro (08 9733 8068; www.oceanprodivers.net) Professional and knowledgeable staff run a seamless operation.
TOURS
Day trips and overnight camping trips on nearby Ko Adang and Ko Rawi have been quite popular in the last couple of years. The local chow lair offer excellent trips on which tourists can snorkel through virgin reefs, sunbathe on lonely beaches and learn about the unique lifestyle of the sea gypsies through their stories and cuisine. Most day trips involve an authentically cooked meal of smoked fish steamed in bamboo over an open fire. If this type of adventure sounds like your cup of tea, you can often find a chow lair guide who will lead you on a multiday camping adventure. It is important to ask around before joining a tour as the quality of the guides varies and there are no tour offices. Day trips start at around 400B.
Boi ( Click here) also runs quality snorkel trips (550B to 650B) from her travel shop.
SLEEPING
Space and electricity on Ko Lipe are at a premium, so accommodation is way overpriced. Bungalows that go for 300B on other islands are double the price on Ko Lipe during high season. Most resorts close between May and October, when the seas become rather choppy and the speedboats stop running. Virtually every resort has an on-site eatery, and several of our eating options (opposite) also rent out bungalows.
At the time of research, the construction of two five-star resorts was well under way, so if your wallet runneth over, consider checking to see if the Sita or Idyllic resorts are complete.
Porn Resort (08 9464 5765; Sunset Beach; bungalows 700-800B) This collection of weathered bungalows is the only resort on the comely Sunset Beach. Its bungalow verandahs are ideal for admiring the sun’s nightly dip into the ocean.
Forra Bamboo (08 4407 5691; www.forradiving.com; Sunrise Beach; bungalows 700-1200B) Giant bamboo bungalows sit in a thicketed patch of land facing Sunrise Beach, providing the quintessential Ko Lipe views of languid long-tails and jungle islets further in the distance. Discounts are offered when diving with Forra (left).
Jack’s Jungle Bungalows (www.jacksjunglebar.com; bungalows 950B) Located 150m inland from Sunset Beach, these brand-new bungalows sit in the heart of a vine-tangled rainforest. If you’re looking for ocean views, this is not the place for you; however, Jack’s Jungle offers a pretty good bang for your baht.
Pattaya Song (0 7472 8034; www.pattayasongresort.com; bungalows 1200-1800B) Above the rocks at the western end of the beach, this Italian-run pad has decent wood and concrete huts strung out either along the ocean or a little way up the hill. The Pattaya Seafood restaurant here serves excellent food and the resort can organise fishing and island-hopping trips around the area.
Mountain Resort (0 7472 8131; Sunrise Beach; bungalows 1600B; ) This big resort has outstanding views of Ko Adang from its hillside location. Winding wooden walkways lead up from the beach, where you’ll find a terraced restaurant with equally spectacular vistas. Recent sewage problems (or rather the lack of a sewerage system) have left a section of the resort smelling a tad funny, so poke your nose around before dropping your bags. Beach massages (300B) and snorkel gear (50B) are always on offer.
Bundhaya Resort (0 7475 0248; www.bundhayaresort.com; Hat Pattaya; bungalows incl breakfast 1600-4000B; ai) Corporate Bundhaya is a necessary evil on a laid-back island like Ko Lipe. The uber-organised resort doubles as a speedboat ticket and immigration office. Soulless wooden bungalows are comfortable but overpriced, although the complimentary buffet breakfast will keep you full until dinner.
Castaway Resort (08 3138 7472; www.castaway-resorts.com; Sunrise Beach; bungalows 3000-6250B; ) You’re probably wondering why the heck there’s no air-con for a room that costs 3000B. Well, it’s all part of the bamboo-chic charm. Everything at Castaway feels decidedly upmarket, from the candlelit restaurant to the breezy, teak-adorned bedrooms stocked with myriad pillows.
EATING