Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [83]
Buddhaisawan (Phutthaisawan) Chapel (opposite) Although construction of this temple located in the National Museum began in 1795, the paintings were probably finished during the reign of Rama III (1824–51). Among other scenes, the graceful murals depict the conception, birth and early life of the Buddha – common topics among Thai temple murals.
Wat Suthat (Click here) Almost as impressive in their vast scale as for their quality, the murals at Wat Suthat are among the most awe-inspiring in the country. Gory depictions of Buddhist hell can be found on a pillar directly behind the Buddha statue.
Wat Suwannaram (Map; 0 2434 7790; 33 Soi 32, Th Charoen Sanitwong, Khlong Bangkok Noi; 8am-6pm; Khlong taxi from Tha Chang) These paintings inside a late Ayuthaya-era temple in Thonburi contain skilled and vivid depictions of battle scenes and foreigners, including Chinese and Muslim warriors.
Wat Tritosathep Mahaworawihan (Map; Th Prachatipatai; bus 12, 19, 56) Although still a work in progress, Chakrabhand Posayakrit’s postmodern murals at this temple in Banglamphu have already been recognised as masterworks of Thai Buddhist art.
* * *
Wat Saket & Golden Mount
Even if you’re wát-ed out, you should take a brisk walk to Wat Saket (Map; 0 2223 4561; btwn Th Wora Chak & Th Boriphat; admission to Golden Mount 10B; 8am-5pm; bus 508, 511, klorng taxi to Tha Phan Fah). Like all worthy summits, the temple’s Golden Mount (Phu Khao Thong), which is visible from Th Ratchadamnoen, plays a good game of optical illusion, appearing closer than its real location. Serpentine steps wind through an artificial hill shaded by gnarled trees, some of which are signed in English, and past graves and pictures of wealthy benefactors. At the peak, you’ll find a breezy 360-degree view of Bangkok’s most photogenic side.
This artificial hill was created when a large stupa, under construction by Rama III, collapsed because the soft soil beneath would not support it. The resulting mud-and-brick hill was left to sprout weeds until Rama IV built a small stupa on its crest. Rama V later added to the structure and housed a Buddha relic from India (given to him by the British government) in the stupa. The concrete walls were added during WWII to prevent the hill from eroding. Every year in November there is a big festival on the grounds of Wat Saket, which includes a candlelit procession up the Golden Mount.
If you’re coming from the eastern end of the city, the Golden Mount is a short walk from the klorng boats’ western terminus at Tha Phan Fah.
Wat Suthat & Sao Ching-Cha
Brahmanism predated the arrival of Buddhism in Thailand and its rituals were eventually integrated into the dominant religion. This temple (Map; 0 2224 9845; Th Bamrung Meuang; admission 20B; 9am-8pm; bus 508, klorng taxi to Tha Phan Fah) is the headquarters of the Brahman priests who perform the Royal Ploughing Ceremony in May. Begun by Rama I and completed in later reigns, Wat Suthat boasts a wí·hhn with gilded bronze Buddha images (including Phra Si Sakayamuni, one of the largest surviving Sukhothai bronzes) and incredibly expansive jataka (stories of the Buddha’s previous lives) murals (see the boxed text, Click here). The wát also holds the rank of Rachavoramahavihan, the highest royal-temple grade; the ashes of Rama VIII (Ananda Mahidol, the current king’s deceased older brother) are contained in the base of the main Buddha image in the wí·hhn.
Wat Suthat’s priests also perform rites at two nearby Hindu shrines: Thewa Sathaan (Deva Sathan), which contains images of Shiva and Ganesh; and the smaller Saan Jao Phitsanu (Vishnu Shrine), dedicated to Vishnu.
The spindly red arch in the front of the temple is Sao Ching-Cha (Giant Swing), as much a symbol of Bangkok as Wat Phra Kaew. The swing formerly hosted a spectacular Brahman festival in honour of Shiva, in which participants would swing in ever-higher arcs in an effort to reach a bag of gold suspended from a 15m bamboo pole. Many died trying