Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [84]
The temple is within walking distance of the klorng boats’ terminus at Tha Phan Fah.
Other temples
Founded in 1826, Wat Bowonniwet (Map; cnr Th Phra Sumen & Th Tanao; 8am-5.30pm; bus 15, 53, river ferry Tha Phra Athit) is the national headquarters for the Thammayut monastic sect. King Mongkut, founder of this minority sect, began a royal tradition by residing here as a monk – in fact, he was the abbot of Wat Bowonniwet for several years. King Bhumibol and Crown Prince Vajiralongkorn, as well as several other males in the royal family, have been temporarily ordained as monks. The ubosot (chapel) has some interesting wall murals (see the boxed text, Click here) Because of the temple’s royal status, visitors should be particularly careful to dress properly for admittance to this wát – no shorts or sleeveless shirts.
Across Th Mahachai from Wat Saket, Wat Ratchanatdaram (Map; 0 2224 8807; cnr Th Ratchadamnoen Klang & Th Mahachai; 9am-5pm; bus 56, 505, klorng taxi to Tha Phan Fah) dates from the mid-19th century and today is home to a well-known market selling Buddhist prá pim (magical charm amulets) in all sizes, shapes and styles. The amulets not only feature images of the Buddha, but also famous Thai monks and Indian deities. Buddha images are also for sale.
Th Bamrung Meuang
One of the city’s earliest thoroughfares (the street was originally an elephant path leading to the royal palace), today the stretches of Th Bamrung Meuang (Map; bus 508, klorng taxi to Tha Phan Fah) that extend directly west and east of Wat Suthat form an open-air shopping centre for all manner of religious paraphernalia. In the shops, the contents of which pour out onto the street, you’ll see care packages that are typically bought and donated to temples, models of famous monks, monk robes and other devotional items. The large Buddha statues that are wrapped in plastic are particularly photogenic.
Ban Baht (Monk’s Bowl Village)
Just when you start to lament the adverse effects of tourism, pay a visit to this handicraft village (Map; Soi Ban Baht, Th Bamrung Meuang; 10am-6pm; bus 508, klorng taxi to Tha Phan Fah). This is the only surviving village established by Rama I to make the bàht (rounded bowls) that the monks carry to receive food alms from faithful Buddhists every morning. Today the average monk relies on a bowl mass-produced in China, but the traditional technique survives in Ban Baht thanks to patronage by tourists.
About half a dozen families still hammer the bowls together from eight separate pieces of steel representing, they say, the eight spokes of the Wheel of Dharma (which symbolise Buddhism’s Eightfold Path). The joints are fused in a wood fire with bits of copper, and the bowl is polished and coated with several layers of black lacquer. A typical output is one bowl per day. If you purchase a bowl, the craftsperson will show you the equipment and process used.
Democracy Monument
One of the first striking landmarks you’ll notice on your way into Banglamphu is this large Art Deco monument (Map; Th Ratchadamnoen Klang, Th Din So; bus 44, 511, 512, river ferry Tha Phra Athit) occupying the avenue’s traffic circle. It was erected in 1932 to commemorate Thailand’s momentous transformation from absolute to constitutional monarchy. Italian artist Corrado Feroci designed the monument and buried 75 cannon balls in its base to signify the year Buddhist Era (BE) 2475 (AD 1932). Before immigrating to Thailand to become the nation’s ‘father of modern art’, Feroci designed monuments for Italian dictator Benito Mussolini. In recent years the monument has become a symbolic spot for public demonstrations, most notably during the antimilitary, prodemocratic protests of 1992.
October 14 Memorial
This peaceful amphitheatre (Map; Khok Wua intersection, Th Ratchadamnoen Klang; bus 2, 82, 511, 512) commemorates the civilian