Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [88]
While much of the market centres on cooking ingredients, the section north of Th Charoen Krung (equivalent to Soi 21, Th Charoen Krung) is known for selling incense, paper effigies and ceremonial sweets – the essential elements of a traditional Chinese funeral.
WAT MANGKON KAMALAWAT
Clouds of incense and the sounds of chanting form the backdrop at this Chinese-style Mahayana Buddhist temple (Neng Noi Yee; Map; Th Charoen Krung; 9am-6pm; Metro Hualamphong, bus 73, 501, 507, river ferry Tha Ratchawong). Dating back to 1871, it’s the largest and most important religious structure in the area, and during the annual Vegetarian Festival (see the boxed text, Click here), religious and culinary activities are particularly active here.
WAT TRAIMIT
The attraction at Wat Traimit (Temple of the Golden Buddha; Map; 0 2225 9775; cnr Th Yaowarat & Th Charoen Krung; admission 20B; 9am-5pm; Metro Hualamphong, bus 53) is undoubtedly the impressive 3m-tall, 5.5-tonne, solid-gold Buddha image, which gleams like, well, gold. Sculpted in the graceful Sukhothai style, the image was ‘discovered’ some 40 years ago beneath a stucco or plaster exterior, when it fell from a crane while being moved to a new building within the temple compound. It has been theorised that the covering was added to protect it from marauding hordes, either during the late Sukhothai period or later in the Ayuthaya period when the city was under siege by the Burmese. The temple itself is said to date from the early 13th century.
Donations and a constant flow of tourists have proven profitable, and the temple is currently building an immense golden stupa that, when finished, will tower over Chinatown.
TALAT NOI
Bordered by the river, Th Songwat, Th Charoen Krung and Th Yotha, this ancient neighbourhood is a fascinating jumble of tiny alleys, greasy machine shops and traditional architecture. Located opposite the River View Guest House (Click here), San Jao Sien Khong (Map; admission by donation; 6am-6pm; river ferry Tha Krom Chao Tha) is one of the city’s oldest Chinese shrines, and also one of the best areas to be during the annual Vegtarian Festival (see the boxed text, Click here).
PHAHURAT MARKET
Hidden behind the new and astonishingly out of place India Emporium mall is Phahurat Market (Map; Th Phahurat & Th Chakraphet; bus 73, river ferry Tha Saphan Phut), an endless bazaar uniting flamboyant Bollywood fabric, photogenic vendors selling paan (betel nut for chewing) and several shops stocked with delicious northern Indian–style sweets.
In an alley off Th Chakraphet is Sri Gurusingh Sabha (Map; Th Phahurat; 9am-5pm; bus 53, 73, river ferry Tha Saphan Phut), a large Sikh temple reminiscent of a mosque interior, devoted to the worship of the Guru Granth Sahib, the 16th-century Sikh holy book, which is itself considered to be a ‘living’ guru and the last of the religion’s 10 great teachers. Reportedly, the temple is the second-largest Sikh temple outside India. Visitors are welcome, but they must remove their shoes.
Silom, Sathon & Riverside
The business district of Th Silom has only a handful of tourist attractions scattered among the corporate hotels, office towers and wining-and-dining restaurants. As you get closer to the river, the area becomes spiced with the sights and smells of its Indian and Muslim residents. Moving north along Th Charoen Krung, the area adjacent to the river was the international mercantile district during Bangkok’s shipping heyday. The odd crumbling Victorian building and several of Bangkok’s luxury hotels now occupy this neighbourhood of tributary sois.
Traffic is notorious in this part of town,