Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [89]
SRI MAHARIAMMAN TEMPLE
Standing out, even among Bangkok’s golden wát, this Hindu temple (Wat Phra Si Maha Umathewi; Map; cnr Th Silom & Th Pan; donations accepted; 6am-8pm; Skytrain Surasak) virtually leaps off the block. Built in the 1860s by Tamil immigrants in the centre of a still thriving ethnic enclave, the structure is a stacked facade of intertwined, full-colour Hindu deities. In the centre of the main shrine is Jao Mae Maha Umathewi (Uma Devi, also known as Shakti, Shiva’s consort); her son Phra Khanthakuman (Subramaniam) is on the right; and on the left is her other son, elephant-headed Phra Phikkhanet (Ganesh). Along the left interior wall sit rows of Shiva, Vishnu and other Hindu deities, as well as a few Buddhas, so that just about any non-Muslim, non-Judaeo-Christian Asian can worship here.
Thais call this temple Wat Khaek – kàak is a colloquial expression for people of Indian descent. The literal translation is ‘guest’, an obvious euphemism for a group of people you don’t particularly want as permanent residents; hence most Indians living permanently in Thailand don’t appreciate the term.
M R KUKRIT PRAMOJ HOUSE
Author and statesman Mom Ratchawong (M R, an honorary royal title) Kukrit Pramoj once resided in this charming Thai house, now open to the public as a museum (Map; 0 2286 8185; Soi Phra Phinij/7, Th Narathiwat Rachananakharin; admission 50B; 10am-5pm Sat & Sun; Skytrain Chong Nonsi). European-educated but devoutly Thai, M R Kukrit surrounded himself with the best of both worlds: five traditional teak buildings, Thai art, Western books and lots of heady conversations. A guided tour is recommended for a more intimate introduction to the former resident, who authored more than 150 books and served as prime minister of Thailand.
QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (SNAKE FARM)
Snake farms tend to gravitate towards carnivalesque rather than humanitarian, except at the Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute (Map; 0 2252 0161; cnr Th Phra Ram IV & Th Henri Dunant; adult/child 200/50B; 9.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat & Sun; Skytrain Sala Daeng, Metro Silom). Founded in 1923, the snake farm prepares antivenin from venomous snakes – common cobra, king cobra, banded krait, Malayan pit viper, green pit viper and Russell’s viper. This is done by milking the snakes’ venom, injecting it into horses, and harvesting and purifying the antivenom that they produce. The antivenoms are then used to treat human victims of snake bites.
The leafy grounds are home to a few caged snakes (and a constant soundtrack of Western rock music), but the bulk of the attractions are found in the Simaseng Building, at the rear of the compound. The ground floor houses several varieties of snakes in glass cages. Daily milkings (11am) and snake-handling performances (2.30pm Mon-Fri) are held on the 2nd floor.
Siam Square & Pratunam
Commerce, mainly in the form of multistorey mega-malls, forms the main attraction in this part of town, but there are a couple of sights that don’t involve credit cards. Skytrain and the klorng taxis provide easy access to most attractions here.
JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE
Jim Thompson’s House (Map; 0 2216 7368; www.jimthompsonhouse.com; 6 Soi Kasem San 2; adult/child 100/50B; 9am-5pm, compulsory tours in English & French every 10min; Skytrain National Stadium, bus 73, 508, klorng taxi to Tha Ratchathewi) is an unlikely but stunning outpost of Thai architecture and Southeast Asian art.
The leafy compound is the former home of the eponymous American silk entrepreneur and art collector. Born in Delaware in 1906, Thompson briefly served in the Office of Strategic Services (forerunner of the CIA) in Thailand during WWII. Settling in Bangkok after the war, his neighbours’ handmade silk caught his eye and piqued his business sense; he sent samples to fashion houses in Milan, London and Paris, gradually building a steady worldwide clientele.
In addition to exquisite Asian art, Thompson also collected parts of various derelict Thai