Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [90]
Thompson’s story doesn’t end with his informal reign as Bangkok’s best-adapted foreigner. While out for an afternoon walk in the Cameron Highlands of western Malaysia in 1967, Thompson mysteriously disappeared. That same year his sister was murdered in the USA, fuelling various conspiracy theories. Was it communist spies? Business rivals? Or a man-eating tiger? The most recent theory – for which there is apparently some hard evidence – has it that the silk magnate was accidentally run over by a Malaysian truck driver who hid his remains. Jim Thompson: The Unsolved Mystery, by William Warren, is an excellent book on Thompson, his career, residence and subsequent intriguing disappearance.
BAAN KRUA
This atmospheric community between Khlong Saen Saeb, Th Phayathai and Th Phra Ram I is one of Bangkok’s oldest Muslim neighbourhoods, and its skilled silk weavers allegedly inspired Jim Thomspon to start selling the stuff abroad (see left). Today production has largely moved elsewhere, but the area retains its Muslim character, and at least one of the original family outfits, Phamai Baan Krua (0 2215 7458; Klorng taxi to Tha Hua Chang), is still weaving silk on old teak looms.
ERAWAN SHRINE
A seamless merging of commerce and religion occurs at all hours of the day at this bustling shrine (San Phra Phrom; Map; cnr Th Ratchadamri & Th Ploenchit; admission free; 8am-7pm; Skytrain Chitlom). Claiming a spare corner of the Grand Hyatt Erawan hotel, the four-headed deity Brahma (Phra Phrom) represents the Hindu god of creation and was originally built to ward off bad luck during the construction of the first Erawan Hotel (see the boxed text, opposite). The shrine was later adopted by the lay community as it gained a reputation for granting wishes.
LINGAM SHRINE AT NAI LERT PARK
Clusters of carved stone and wooden phalli surround a spirit house and shrine (Saan Jao Mae Thap Thim; Map; Nai Lert Park Hotel, Th Withayu/Wireless Rd; Skytrain Ploenchit, klorng taxi to Tha Withayu) built by millionaire businessman Nai Lert to honour Jao Mae Thap Thim, a female deity thought to reside in the old banyan tree on the site. Someone who made an offering shortly thereafter had a baby, and the shrine has received a steady stream of worshippers – mostly young women seeking fertility – ever since. To get here if facing the entrance of the hotel, follow the small concrete pathway to the right which winds down into the bowels of the building beside the car park. The shrine is at the end of the building next to the canal.
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AN ELEPHANT’S MEMORY
One of the more clichéd tourist images of Bangkok is that of elaborately dressed classical Thai dancers performing at the Hindu shrine in front of the Grand Hyatt Erawan hotel. As with many things in Thailand, there is great deal hidden behind the serene facade.
The shrine was originally built in 1956 as something of a last-ditch effort to end a string of misfortunes that occurred during the construction of the hotel, at that time known as the Erawan Hotel. After several incidents ranging from injured construction workers to the sinking of ship carrying marble for the hotel, a Brahmin priest was consulted. Since the hotel was to be named after the elephant escort of Indra in Hindu mythology, the priest determined that Erawan required a passenger, and suggested it be that of Lord Brahma. A statue was built, and lo and behold, the misfortunes miraculously ended.
Although the original Erawan Hotel was demolished in 1987, the shrine still exists, and today remains an important place of pilgrimage for Thais, particularly those in need of some material assistance. Those making a wish from the statue should ideally come between 7am and 8am, or 7pm