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are found in Ko Ratanakosin, the former royal district, so we’ve put together a walking tour that links them in the better part of a day (around five hours with stops). It’s best to start early to beat the heat and get in before the hordes have descended. Remember to dress modestly (long pants and skirts, shirts with sleeves and closed-toed shoes) in order to gain entry to the temples. Also ignore any strangers who approach you offering advice on sightseeing or shopping.

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WALK FACTS

Start Tha Chang

Finish Deck

Distance approximately 5km

Duration three hours

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Start at Tha Chang (1) and follow Th Na Phra Lan east with a quick diversion to Silpakorn University (2; Th Na Phra Lan), Thailand’s premier fine-arts university. Originally founded as the School of Fine Arts by Italian artist Corrado Feroci, the university campus includes part of an old palace built for Rama I. Continue east to the main gate into Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Palace (3; Click here), two of Bangkok’s most famous attractions.

Backtrack to Th Maharat and turn right. Staying on the west side of the street, the fourth doorway on the left is Ah Khung (4; no roman-script sign; 0 81775 2540; Th Maharat), a vendor of incredibly refreshing bowls of iced chŏw góoay, grass jelly, your well-deserved first snack stop.

Continue north along Th Maharat, which is a centre of herbal apothecaries and sidewalk amulet sellers. Immediately after passing the cat-laden newsstand (you’ll know it when you see it), turn left into Trok Tha Wang (5), a narrow alleyway holding a seemingly hidden classic Bangkok neighbourhood. Returning to Th Mahathat, continue moving north. On your right is Wat Mahathat (6; Click here), one of Thailand’s most respected Buddhist universities.

After a block or so, turn left into crowded Trok Mahathat to discover the cramped amulet market (7; Click here). Follow the alley all the way towards the river to appreciate how extensive the amulet trade is.

As you continue north alongside the river, amulets soon turn to food vendors. The emergence of white-and-black uniforms is a clue that you are approaching Thammasat University (8; Th Phra Chan), known for its law and political science departments. The campus was also the site of the bloody October 1976 prodemocracy demonstrations, when Thai students were killed or wounded by the military.

Exiting at Tha Phra Chan, cross Th Maharat and continue east towards Sanam Luang (9; Click here), the ‘Royal Field’. Cross Sanam Luang, being sure to get a pic of the royal skyline at Wat Phra Kaew. Cross Th Ratchadamnoen Nai and go south towards the home of Bangkok’s city spirit, Lak Meuang (10; Click here), which is generally alive with the spectacle of devotion – including burning joss sticks and traditional dancing.

It’s time for lunch, and at this point you’re only a couple of blocks west of Th Tanao, one of old Bangkok’s premier eating areas. Consider an air-conditioned lunch at Poj Spa Kar (Click here) or classic Bangkok-style cuisine at Chote Chitr (Click here), either of which is just a five-minute walk east along Th Kanlaya Lamit.

Returning at Th Sanamchai, continue south for 500m and turn right onto Th Chetuphon, where you’ll enter Wat Pho (11; Click here), home of the giant reclining Buddha and lots of quiet nooks and crannies.

After a restorative drink or snack at Rub Aroon (12; Click here), head to adjacent Tha Tien to catch the cross-river ferry to Khmer-influenced Wat Arun (13; Click here).

Cross back to Bangkok to end your journey with celebratory drinks at the Deck (14; Click here) – if you’re there at the right time, you can catch one of Bangkok’s premier sunset views.

Chinatown

This walking tour takes in the hectic markets and main streets of Bangkok’s most congested neighbourhood, as well as its lesser-visited riverfront area; it’s around three hours, or five with stops.

Take the Metro to Hualamphong (1). Explore the city’s largest train terminal, or proceed directly to Metro exit 1. Emerging on Th Phra Ram IV, cross the klorng and turn left into Th