Thailand (Lonely Planet, 13th Edition) - China Williams [97]
Continuing along Th Traimit, go right at the Chinese gate and cross over to Th Yaowarat, Chinatown’s main artery. On the opposite side of the street is a Kuan Im Shrine (3). Dating back to 1902, it is home to an ancient teak statue of the eponymous Buddhist deity, as well as the headquarters of the charitable Thian Fah Foundation.
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WALK FACTS
Start Hualamphong Metro station
Finish River City Shopping Centre
Distance approximately 5km
Duration three hours
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Continue north along Th Yaowarat until you reach the Chaloem Buri Intersection (4), on the corner of Th Songsawat. The north side of Th Yaowarat is the best place to view the jumble of neon signs that many associate with Bangkok’s Chinatown.
Turn left into Th Phadungdao, turning right at the T-intersection. After about 50m you’ll see a small Chinese shrine on your right; opposite this you’ll see a shopfront cafe invariably populated by old Chinese men. This is Ia Sae (5; Th Phat Say), one of the city’s oldest coffee houses and your first drink or snack break.
Backtracking along Th Phat Sai, turn down Trok Khao San. Follow this tiny, atmospheric alleyway until you emerge at the first large intersection; this is Sampeng (6; Soi Wanit 1), Chinatown’s busy market street. Follow the commerce west until the second large intersection. Turn right and continue north until you emerge back at Th Yaowarat. Cross over into Soi 6, the fresh market lane known locally as Talat Mai (7; Click here). Emerging at Th Charoen Krung, cross the street and continue straight along the alleyway, taking the first right. This section of the market is known for selling the paper offerings burnt at Chinese funerals. Loop around back to Th Charoeng Krung. Moving north, this stretch of Chinese medicine shops, coffin makers, vendors of dry goods and bird nest soup restaurants is classic Chinatown.
Just after Soi 21, turn right into Wat Mangkon Kamalawat (8; Click here), Chinatown’s largest and liveliest temple.
Follow Th Mangkorn south, crossing Th Yaowarat. Continue in the same direction and two blocks into the street, on either side of the intersection are two of Bangkok’s oldest commercial buildings: a Bangkok Bank (9) and the venerable Tang To Kang (10) gold shop. Both are more than 100 years old, and classic examples of early Ratanakosin architecture.
Turn right at Sampeng Lane (Soi Wanit 1) and continue until you reach the main street, Th Ratchawong. Turn left and walk all the way to the dead end; this is Tha Ratchawong, home to Wan Fah (11; 0 2622 7657; 292 Th Ratchawong; lunch & dinner), a blissfully air-conditioned potential lunch break.
Backtrack along Th Ratchawong and turn right down Th Songwat. This street holds many of Bangkok’s remaining antique buildings. Turn right into Th Phanurangsi, you are now in Talat Noi (12; Click here). Follow the virtual path of engines and other hardware left into Th Wanit 2 and turn right into Soi Chow Su Kong. Follow this alleyway until you reach San Jao Jo Sue Kong (13), a Chinese shrine. Locate the signs that lead to River View Guest House and follow them until you reach two large banyan trees tied with ribbons and laden with offerings. Follow the garbage-strewn path behind them to Chao Sua Son’s house (14), the only remaining traditional Chinese residence in Bangkok.
Making your way back to Th Wanit 2, follow the path south, passing the Holy Rosary Church (15; Th Yotha), the city’s oldest place of Christian worship. Continue about 200m and end your walk with a well-deserved espresso and tarte citron at Folies (16; Captain Bush Lane), an open-air French cafe located between River City shopping centre and the Royal Orchid Sheraton.
COURSES
Culture and cooking courses dominate Bangkok’s continuing-education syllabus.
Return to beginning of chapter
Cooking
Imagine the points you’ll rack up if you can make authentic Thai dishes for your friends back at home. A visit to a Thai