The Great American Ale Trail - Christian DeBenedetti [85]
THE GREAT
NORTHERN
BREWING CO. &
BLACK STAR
DRAUGHT HOUSE
2 Central Ave. East • Whitefish, MT 59937 • (406) 863-1000
greatnorthernbrewing.com • Established: 1994
SCENE & STORY
The mostly automated, 8,000-barrel capacity brewery itself is unmistakable; for one, it’s the tallest building in town (three levels), and for another, it’s more or less completely made of glass, which shows off a gravity-flow brewing setup (using few pumps) unlike any other in the state. It’s a striking contrast to the less lofty wood clapboard buildings around it, and it means the brewers have the best view. A tour up and down the winding circular stairs is recommended, building a thirst for refreshment in the busy taproom, which is a popular hangout for locals.
PHILOSOPHY
Solid, malt-forward, cleanly made brews. Founder Minott Wessinger, the great-great-grandson of Henry Weinhard—whose own Blitz-Weinhard Brewery was a Portland institution from 1856 until it closed for good in 1999—built Great Northern Brewing in 1994 as a vehicle for Black Star Golden Lager, with a hoppy lager recipe akin to the great Weinhard’s Private Reserve which had made his family’s fortune. It’s a hop-accented golden lager designed to appeal to discerning drinkers in both the macro and craft segments.
KEY BEER
“Black Star Golden Lager built this brewery,” says General Manager Marcus Duffey, by way of explaining why they brought the 4.6% ABV brew back after a seven-year hiatus (see the “Detour” below for more on founder Minott Wessinger and his inventions). It’s a slightly sweet, malty golden lager with some discernible, grassy hop character, good for a session down at the bar, but nothing particularly astounding.
DETOUR
MINOTT WESSINGER
Whitefish, Montana—like Aspen, Taos, and Sisters, Oregon—is an ultra picturesque Western town that lures hordes of affluent, influential types to soak up the vibes and spread their empires. Minott Wessinger is one of those sorts himself. There are several very well-made beers in his lineup, and, taking cues from the Empire Builder train line that serves Whitefish, there is some dynasty-building going on that might come as a surprise to lovers of craft beer. In 2001, Wessinger, who had struck gold developing St. Ides (a “malt liquor”) under a contract arrangement with another brewery in the late 1980s by having rap artists including Snoop Dogg, Tupac Shakur, and Biggie Smalls expound on its qualities, decided to sell Great Northern Brewing Company and cease brewing Black Star Lager in order to pursue other projects, notably a youthfully marketed alcoholic soda pop called Sparks, which caused no little consternation among watchdog and parents groups. After launching it in 2002, Wessinger later sold Sparks to Miller in 1996 for a reported $220 million. Perhaps sensing his legacy and lineage—and sensing new opportunity in craft beer—Wessinger returned as a partner to Great Northern and helped relaunch Black Star Golden Lager in February 2010. Who knew craft beer and gangsta rap were bedfellows in Whitefish, Montana?
THE GREAT
NORTHERN
BAR & GRILL
27 Central Ave. • Whitefish, MT 59937 • (406) 862-2816
greatnorthernbar.com • Established: 1919
SCENE & STORY
Right across the street from the Great Northern brewery, this is the kind of place that every town needs but too often lacks: a classic old establishment with a beat-up old bar, cool old signage from days and businesses gone by, a patio, full menu, and a stage. It’s got a roadhouse feel, with pool tables, shuffleboard, and ping pong, and the atmosphere of a glorious dive without too much of the grime. And because it’s the social center of town in Whitefish, it’s typically filled to the brim with Whitefish citizens and tourists young and old. The locals are appropriately proud of the day The Boss—Bruce Springsteen—jumped on stage with the band to play “Mustang Sally” way back when in August 1996.
PHILOSOPHY
Officially? “If we ain’t got it, you don’t need it.”
KEY BEER
Of the tap brews, most are local to Montana, or at least