The Great American Ale Trail - Christian DeBenedetti [86]
BEST of the REST: MONTANA
WORDEN’S MARKET
451 N. Higgins Ave. • Missoula, MT 59802-4522 • (406) 549-1293
Missoula’s very first grocery store, now in its fifth location, originally opened in 1883 and has played a key role in the development of Montana’s beer scene. For starters, it has long stocked a good selection of kegs, stoking many a local party, but more importantly, its owners have introduced locals to thousands of imports and American craft beers, which are lovingly curated by the talkative and knowledgeable Mark Thomsen. It’s a friendly, bustling place. In October 2009 another of Montana’s backward beer laws was amended, finally allowing the sale of beer up to 14% ABV, a threshold that is common with many of the most sought-after styles of Belgian and English beers.
BLACKSMITH BREWING CO.
114 Main St. • Stevensville, MT 59870 • (406) 777-0680 • blacksmithbrewing.com
Housed in an old buggy salesroom built in 1908 that later became both a Chinese laundry and a blacksmith’s shop (until the year 2000!), Blacksmith is one of the latest additions to Montana’s growing beer scene, opened in October 2008. Stevensville, on the other hand, is known as Montana’s oldest community, founded in 1841, and the owners and fans alike see this as a kind of synergy capturing all that is good about the great state of Montana. The taproom is a visual nod to this pedigree, all exposed brick, vintage high backed wooden chairs, pine walls with cowboy branding-iron “graffiti” (discovered during renovations), and bare wooden rafters and beams. Right on Stevensville’s main street, it ought to be on any Bitterroot Valley traveler’s agenda. The beers are West Coast–style ales like Cutthroat IPA, at 6.2% ABV, a traditionally copper-colored brew that’s dry-hopped for an extra citrus finish. A recent India Black Ale or “Black IPA” was excellent, too, with ample roasted bitterness and a fir tree’s freshness.
FLATHEAD LAKE BREWING CO.
26008 E. Lake Shore Dr. (mile marker 26 on MT Route 35) • Woods Bay (Big Fork), MT 59911 • (406) 837-0353 • flatheadlakebrewing.com
Originally opened in 2004, this much-loved brewpub resides on the picturesque eastern shore of Flathead Lake in Woods Bay, and boasts views of the water and big mountains under the Big Sky. The company added a pub fare menu in 2010 and a second taproom location in Missoula in early 2011. Try the chocolaty 6.5% ABV Porter, which earned a bronze medal at the 2006 World Beer Cup.
Wyoming
SNAKE RIVER
BREWING CO.
265 S. Millward St. • Jackson, WY 83001 • (307) 739-2337
snakeriverbrewing.com • Established: 1994
SCENE & STORY
The mere presence of great craft beer is not the first reason to go to Jackson—let’s face it, the Grand Tetons are the real draw here, especially in the winter for skiers—but it does sweeten the deal considerably. Opened in 1994, Snake River has built an excellent restaurant and award-winning brewery. The brewpub itself is a spacious, well-lit, multilevel affair with lots of windows, and frequented by locals who avoid the tourist traps in town (i.e. the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar, which, truth be told, can be a fun pit stop). It turns into a serious party around holidays like Oktoberfest, Mardi Gras, Halloween, and Saint Patrick’s Day, and the food earns high marks, especially “The Roper” sandwich: braised brisket, applewood-smoked bacon, caramelized onions, white cheddar, and horseradish mayo on a house-made bun.
PHILOSOPHY
Snake River’s huge popularity could have led it down the path of mediocrity in a hurry. Instead the family-owned brewery seems to be getting better every year. Since 2007, the brewery has ramped up its brewing program considerably, adding bold new styles and experiments that are gaining notice.
KEY BEER
Snake River Brewing Company has traditionally excelled in one particular style that few manage to nail or even dare to tackle: Foreign (aka Export)