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1 medium tomato, coarsely chopped

½ medium red onion, thinly sliced

2 sprigs fresh sage

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the baking sheets

Freshly ground pepper

8 whole trout (1 pound each), cleaned and deboned, heads and tails left on

16 sprigs fresh rosemary

Juice of 2 lemons, plus 2 more lemons, cut into wedges, for serving

¾ cup dry white wine

1. Rinse the beans. Transfer to a large bowl; cover with water by 2 inches. Cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let the beans soak at room temperature 7 hours or refrigerate overnight.

2. Drain the beans. Transfer to a large stockpot. Add 12 cups cold water and 2 crushed garlic cloves. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer until tender, 40 to 45 minutes. Drain. Season with salt. Transfer to a large bowl.

3. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Add 2 crushed garlic cloves, the tomato, onion, sage, and ¼ cup oil to the bowl with beans. Season with salt and pepper. Toss to combine. Transfer to a 9 × 13-inch baking dish. Bake 15 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, open each fish like a book, and place them on oiled baking sheets, skin sides down. Season with salt and pepper. Rub the flesh with the 4 peeled whole garlic cloves; discard the garlic. Roll each rosemary sprig in oil from the baking sheets; place 2 sprigs on top of each fish. Drizzle the fish with remaining ¾ cup oil. Arrange the remaining 6 crushed garlic cloves around fish.

5. Remove beans from oven; toss. Bake until slightly golden, about 10 minutes.

6. Bake the fish until the flesh is opaque, about 10 minutes. Remove from the oven; pour the lemon juice and wine over the fish. Bake 2 minutes more. Serve the fish with the beans and lemon wedges.

grilled prawns with pistou

SERVES 4

You can substitute 1 pound large shrimp with shells for the prawns.

¼ cup whole raw almonds

2 cups loosely packed fresh basil leaves

1 cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley

12 anchovy fillets, rinsed

2 garlic cloves, peeled

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Zest of 1 lemon, plus lemon wedges, for serving

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

12 prawns, shells and heads intact

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Toast the almonds on a rimmed baking sheet in oven, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and golden brown, about 10 minutes. Let cool completely; coarsely chop.

2. Process the almonds, basil, parsley, anchovies, and garlic in a food processor until combined. Add the oil in a slow, steady stream, and process until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl. Stir in the lemon zest; season with salt and pepper. Reserve ¼ cup pistou for dipping.

3. Heat a grill to medium-high (if using a charcoal grill, coals are ready when you can hold your hand 5 inches above grate for just 3 to 4 seconds). Toss the prawns with the remaining pistou. Grill, turning once, until cooked through, about 2½ minutes per side; season with salt and pepper. Serve with the lemon wedges and reserved pistou for dipping.

clams with lemongrass and chiles

SERVES 6 TO 8

This dish is also delicious with mussels. Decrease the amount of chiles if you like it less spicy.

Coarse salt

4 dozen small clams, such as littleneck, rinsed well (about 5 pounds)

2 stalks fresh lemongrass, hard outer leaves removed and reserved, bottom 4 inches of stalks thinly sliced crosswise

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 shallots, thinly sliced (about ½ cup)

3 garlic cloves, minced

2 small fresh green chiles, such as jalapeño, serrano, or Thai chiles, thinly sliced crosswise

3 small fresh red chiles, such as cherry peppers or Holland chiles, thinly sliced crosswise

½ cup lime juice, plus lime wedges, for garnish (5 limes total)

¼ cup Asian fish sauce

1 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped

1. Dissolve 2 tablespoons salt in a large bowl of cold water. Add the clams. Let soak at room temperature 15 minutes. Drain.

2. Scrub the clams under cold running water. Transfer to a large bowl of fresh cold water. Repeat, scrubbing the clams and rinsing in fresh water until you no longer see any