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3. Put the reserved lemongrass leaves in a large pot with ½ inch of water. Bring to a boil. Add the clams. Steam, covered, until the clams open, 6 to 7 minutes. Drain. Discard any unopened clams and the leaves.

4. Add the oil, sliced lemongrass, the shallots, garlic, and chiles. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until the lemongrass and shallots turn golden, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Add the clams to the pot, and gently stir to coat.

5. Stir together the lime juice and fish sauce; pour over the clams. Transfer the clams to a serving bowl; sprinkle with cilantro. Garnish with lime wedges.

seared salmon with savoy cabbage and lentils

SERVES 4

1 cup French green lentils

2 medium carrots, peeled and cut into ¼-inch dice (about ¾ cup)

2 garlic cloves

1 bay leaf

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 slices thick-cut bacon, cut into ½-inch pieces

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium leek, white and pale-green parts only, cut into ½-inch-thick rounds, rinsed well

1 small Savoy cabbage (about 1 pound), cored and cut into 1-inch-thick wedges

3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

4 salmon fillets (at least 2½ inches wide and about 7 ounces each), with skin

¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

½ lemon

1. Put the lentils, carrots, garlic, and bay leaf in a medium saucepan; cover with cold water by 4 inches. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are tender, about 15 minutes. Drain; return the mixture to the pan. Add 1 teaspoon salt; season with pepper. Stir in 1 tablespoon oil; cover to keep warm.

2. Cook the bacon in a medium skillet over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp. Drain on paper towels. Reserve the fat; wipe the skillet clean. Add the bacon to the lentil mixture.

3. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat; add the leek. Cook, stirring, until softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in the cabbage and a pinch of salt. Add ¼ cup water. Cover; cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the cabbage is just tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Cover to keep warm.

4. Stir together the mustard and 1 tablespoon oil in a shallow dish. Season the fillets with salt and pepper. Place the fillets in the dish to coat the skins with the mustard mixture.

5. Add 1 tablespoon reserved bacon fat to the reserved skillet; heat over medium-high heat. In batches, if necessary (allow 1 inch between fillets), cook the fillets, skin sides down, until the skins are browned and very crisp, about 4 minutes. Flip; cook 3 minutes more (for medium-rare).

6. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the lentil mixture; stir in the parsley. Divide the lentils and salmon among serving plates. Squeeze the lemon over the cabbage; divide among plates.

striped bass with cherry tomatoes and olives

SERVES 4

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 pound cherry tomatoes

½ cup Gaeta or kalamata olives, pitted and halved

3 tablespoons capers, drained

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh oregano

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

4 fillets (8 ounces each) striped bass, skinned

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a medium skillet over medium heat until hot but not smoking. Add the garlic; cook, stirring, until just golden, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes; cook until the skins begin to split, 2 to 3 minutes. Stir in the olives, capers, and oregano; cook 30 seconds more. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Coat both sides of the fish with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil; season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a medium roasting pan, skinned side down. Spoon the tomato mixture over the fish. Cook until opaque, 10 to 15 minutes. Serve topped with sauce from the pan.

salmon, spinach, and potatoes baked in parchment

SERVES 2

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened

1 tablespoon salt-packed capers, rinsed well and coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped