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Makes 4 side-dish servings

Cauliflower Variation

INGREDIENTS

1 head cauliflower, separated into

florets

3 tablespoons olive oil

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground coriander

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon cayenne

¼ teaspoon ground ginger

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Place all the ingredients in a large mixing bowl. With your hands, mix until ¾ cauliflower is well coated. The cauliflower should glisten with oil; if it seems dry, feel free to add a wee bit more oil. Taste a floret for salt and spices and add more if needed. Transfer the cauliflower to a baking tray and place in the oven.

Cook for 30 to 32 minutes, which will yield fork-tender florets with a slight bite. Cook for an additional 8 minutes if you’re looking for softer results.

Makes 4 side-dish servings

PESTO FOR ALL SEASONS

Arugula Variation

INGREDIENTS

2 bunches arugula

(about 8 cups), washed

thoroughly, stemmed, and

spun dry

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 cloves garlic, sliced thinly

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

(add up to 1 teaspoon if you

like heat)

¼ cup walnuts (optional)

½ teaspoon salt

Ground black pepper

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

Divide the arugula between two bowls.

Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium heat and add the garlic and half of the arugula. With tongs, turn the arugula to coat with the oil; it will wilt (and shrink) rather quickly. Cook for about 2 minutes.

Transfer the wilted arugula and garlic to the bowl of a food processor. Add the remaining uncooked arugula, pepper flakes, and nuts (if using) to the food processor, in batches if necessary. Whiz until the mixture is an emerald green puree. Add the remaining oil and whiz for another minute or so. Add the salt and whiz for a few seconds. Taste, and add more as needed. Add pepper as you see fit.

Makes 1½ cups

Basil Variation

INGREDIENTS

2 heaping cups basil leaves

¼ cup pine nuts, walnuts, or

almonds

1 to 2 cloves garlic

½ cup olive oil

½ to ¾ cup grated Parmigiano-

Reggiano cheese

¼ to ½ teaspoon salt

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

Here’s what you do:

Bring 2 cups of water to a boil and add the basil leaves. Blanch for 15 seconds, then remove from the pot with a skimmer or a pair of tongs. Transfer to a bowl of ice cold water. This will shock the basil and intensify its brilliant shade of green.

Extract the basil from the water and squeeze it dry as much as possible with your hands.

Place the nuts and the garlic in the bowl of a food processor or heavy-duty blender and whiz until pulverized. Add the basil and process until the mixture is well combined. While the machine is running, gradually add the oil, until creamy and well blended. You may need to stop and scrape the sides of the bowl a few times for thorough blending.

Transfer the pesto to a small bowl and stir in the cheese. Add ¼ teaspoon of the salt, taste, and add more as you see fit.

Makes about 1 cup

Kale Variation

INGREDIENTS

¼ to ½ cup chopped walnuts

4 cups Lacinato (a.k.a. Dinosaur)

kale, stems removed, chopped

coarsely

1½ to 2 teaspoons salt

2 cloves garlic, minced

½ cup olive oil

½ cup grated Parmigiano-

Reggiano cheese

Ground black pepper

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

Toast the chopped walnuts in a dry, heavy skillet over high heat, stirring constantly, until they start to brown and become fragrant. Alternatively, place on a baking sheet and toast at 325°F for about 5 minutes. Keep an eye on the nuts—they burn quickly and will become bitter!

Bring 8 cups of water to a boil. Add 1 teaspoon of the salt, then add the kale. Cook, uncovered, until tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the pot and drain.

In a blender or food processor, combine the garlic, walnuts, and drained kale and whiz until well mixed. Pour in the oil in a steady stream, and pulse until combined. Add ½ teaspoon of the salt, pulse, then taste. Add the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt if necessary.

Transfer the pesto to a medium-size bowl and stir in the cheese and