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Keeps really well in an airtight container in the fridge, for up to a week.

Makes about 1 cup

Garlic Scape Variation

INGREDIENTS

⅓ cup walnuts

1 cup garlic scapes

(about 8 or 9 scapes), top

flowery part removed, cut into

¼-inch slices

¾ cup olive oil

¼ to ½ cup grated Parmigiano-

Reggiano cheese

½ teaspoon salt

Ground black pepper

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

Toast the chopped walnuts in a dry, heavy skillet over high heat, stirring constantly, until they start to brown and become fragrant. Alternatively, place on a baking sheet and toast at 325°F for about 5 minutes. Keep an eye on the nuts—they burn quickly and will become bitter!

Place the walnuts and the scapes in the bowl of a food processor and whiz until well combined and somewhat smooth. Slowly drizzle in the oil and process until integrated. With a rubber spatula, scoop the pesto out of bowl and into a mixing bowl. Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano to taste; add the salt and pepper to taste. Keeps for up to one week in an airtight container in the fridge.

Makes about ¾ cup

MADRAS-STYLE CURRY POWDER

As mentioned in the pantry section, curry powder is a highly individualized spice blend typically mixed at home in India. Here’s just one way of recreating Madras-style curry; feel free to mix up the amounts and spice combinations as you see fit. You’ll need a coffee mill specifically designated for spices to grind the seeds. Curry will keep for a few months in a sealed jar stored in a cool, dark place.

INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

1 tablespoon fenugreek seeds

1 tablespoon cumin seeds

1 tablespoon red pepper flakes

2 teaspoons ground turmeric

2 teaspoons ground ginger

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons black peppercorns

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

HERE’S WHAT TO DO:

Combine all the ingredients and grind as needed.

Makes about ⅔ cup

APPLESAUCE

INGREDIENTS

A mix of 4 medium-size apples

(Granny Smith, Jonathan,

Empire, to name a few) for a

variety of flavor and texture

Juice of ½ lemon

1 cup water

Pinch of ground cinnamon

Up to ¼ cup sugar (optional)

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

Peel and core the apples, then slice into fourths. Place in a medium-size saucepan. Add the lemon juice and water; the apples should be barely covered. Bring to a lively simmer over medium-high heat, then lower the heat and cook at a gentle simmer, allowing the apples to soften, reduce, and thicken into a sauce. This should take no more than 15 minutes.

Stir in the cinnamon, then taste the apples for sweetness and add sugar as you see fit.

The sauce is done when the apples are completely soft and broken. For a more pureed consistency, use a potato masher or wooden spoon.

Serve warm or let cool and store in the fridge. Will keep in an airtight container for up to three days.

Makes 4 servings

A QUART OF ALL-PURPOSE VEG STOCK

I call for veg stock in several places throughout the book, using variations of the template below. The beauty of homemade stock is that you can improvise, depending on what you have on hand or what you’re in the mood for. The amounts below will yield one quart of stock, which you can use in myriad ways, from a pot of beans to potpie (page 165). I like the mild flavor that leeks impart in a stock, but don’t fret if they’re unavailable where you live. Use a larger yellow storage onion instead.

INGREDIENTS

1 leek, thoroughly cleaned,

trimmed of its root and cut

into fourths (dark green part

can be used)

1 medium-size onion, cut into

quarters, with skin (clean if

need be)

1 stalk celery, cleaned and cut

into thirds

3 cloves garlic, peeled but left

whole

10 black peppercorns

5 stripped parsley stems

4½ cups cold water

Optional add-ons: 1 medium-size

carrot, peeled and quartered

(optional, for a sweeter result);

1 (2 x 1-inch) hunk fresh

ginger (optional, for Asian-

inspired kapow); 1 dried

cayenne pepper (optional, for a

spicier result)

HERE’S WHAT YOU DO:

Place all the ingredients (including your choice of optional add-ins) in a large saucepan. Bring