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of oolong is soothing. Strongly flavored teas, like Lapsang Souchong or a sweetened chrysanthemum tea, are best savored separately, and not with food.

IN BOTH MANDARIN AND CANTONESE, the word soong means “minced.” This delicate dish of minced chicken and finely diced vegetables served in lettuce cups is an adaptation of a Cantonese banquet dish of minced squab served in lettuce. It makes a fine light lunch dish, too. Makes 4 servings

Chicken Soong in Lettuce Wrap

Chicken

8 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast, cut into ¼-inch cubes

1 ½ teaspoons egg white (beat the white until foamy, then measure)

1 teaspoon cornstarch

⅛ teaspoon salt

Vegetable oil, for passing through

Sauce

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon rice wine or dry sherry

½ tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon ground white pepper

1 teaspoon cornstarch

4 celery ribs, strings removed with a vegetable peeler, finely diced (1 cup)

4 scallions, white and green parts, trimmed and minced (¾ cup)

3 carrots, finely diced (½ cup)

1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

2 teaspoons hoisin sauce

8 whole Bibb or iceberg lettuce leaves

2 tablespoons lightly toasted pine nuts (see Note)

1. To prepare the chicken, place the diced chicken in a medium bowl. Add the egg white, cornstarch, and salt; toss to coat.

2. To prepare the sauce, whisk the soy sauce, vinegar, rice wine, sugar, and white pepper in a small bowl. Dissolve the cornstarch in 1 tablespoon water in another small bowl. Set the bowls aside.

3. Heat a large wok over high heat. Add enough oil to come 1 inch up the sides of the wok and heat it to 300°F. Add the chicken and stir gently, keeping the pieces from sticking together, until they turn white, about 45 seconds. Using a wide wire-mesh skimmer, transfer the chicken to a colander to drain. Discard all the oil except for 2 tablespoons.

4. Heat the wok with the oil over high heat. Add the celery, scallions, and carrots, and stir-fry until crisp-tender, about 45 seconds. Return the chicken to the wok. Stir the sauce, add it to the wok, and stir-fry for 20 seconds. Add the cornstarch mixture and stir-fry until the chicken is cooked through and the sauce has thickened, about 30 seconds. Stir in the sesame oil. Transfer the chicken mixture to a serving bowl.

5. To serve, spread about ¼ teaspoon hoisin sauce in the center of each lettuce leaf. Add 3 tablespoons of the chicken mixture, and sprinkle with a few pine nuts. Place 2 filled lettuce leaves on each plate and serve immediately.

Note: To toast pine nuts, heat an empty wok or skillet over medium-high heat. Add the pine nuts and cook, stirring often, until golden and lightly toasted. Immediately turn the nuts out onto a plate to cool.

THIS DIM SUM FROM HONG KONG clearly illustrates how layers of textures and flavors make Chinese food extraordinary. Whole large shrimp, a shrimp-bamboo shoot paste, and a battered soybean wrapper, deep-fried until crisp, all come into play here. Use the biggest shrimp you can find—they are sometimes labeled “U-15,” which means that there are fewer than 15 to a pound.

Makes 4 servings

Crispy Shrimp Wrapped in Soybean Sheets

8 colossal or jumbo shrimp, about 1 ¼ ounces each, peeled and deveined, with the tail left on

1 tablespoon cornstarch

Shrimp Paste

½ pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

½ cup canned sliced bamboo shoots, drained and rinsed

1 tablespoon sugar

1 ½ teaspoons dark sesame oil

¾ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon ground white pepper

Batter

¼ cup all-purpose flour

¼ teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon vegetable oil

Pinch of salt

8 bean curd sheets, cut into pieces 6 inches by 3 inches

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

1. Place the colossal shrimp in a medium bowl. Add the cornstarch and 1 tablespoon water. Massage the shrimp well with the cornstarch mixture, and let stand for 3 minutes. Then rinse them well under cold running water, and drain. Pat the shrimp with paper towels until dry.

2. To make the shrimp paste, place the medium shrimp