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2. Bring the stock to a boil in a large wok over high heat. Add the bean sprouts, bamboo shoots, mushrooms, carrot, and salt. Cook over high heat for 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and chives, and cook for 1 minute more. Drain in a colander. Transfer the mixture to a clean cloth kitchen towel, and twist the cloth to squeeze out the excess moisture. Squeeze as hard as you can, as the mixture should be as dry as possible. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl, and mix in the sesame oil and white pepper. Clean the wok.

3. Heat the wok over high heat. Add enough oil to come 1 inch up the sides of the wok, and heat it to 300°F. Add the chicken and stir gently to keep the pieces from sticking together, until they turn white, about 45 seconds. Using a wide wire-mesh strainer, transfer the chicken to the bamboo shoot mixture. Cover, and place the mixture in the freezer for 10 minutes to make it easier to handle. Discard the oil. (If you want to reuse the oil for deep-frying the spring rolls, carefully strain it through a fine-mesh strainer into a heatproof bowl to remove any bits of coating.) Clean and dry the wok.

4. In a small bowl, beat the egg until frothy. On a cutting board, place a spring roll wrapper with a point facing you. Using a tablespoon, place a heaping spoonful of the chicken and bamboo shoot mixture on the bottom third of the wrapper, and spread it out horizontally so that the filling is 2 ½ inches wide. Roll the bottom point of the wrapper over the mixture, fold the sides in, brush some beaten egg over the top point of the wrapper, and finish rolling the wrapper from bottom to top. Place the roll on a baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining filling and wrappers. (The shrimp rolls can be made up to 2 hours in advance, covered loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerated.)

5. Heat the wok over high heat. Add enough oil to come about 2 inches up the sides of the wok, and heat it to 350°F. Working in batches without crowding, deep-fry the spring rolls, turning them once, until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes. Using a wide wire-mesh skimmer, transfer them to paper towels to drain. Cut each roll in half diagonally and serve immediately, with bowls of plum sauce and mustard on the side for dipping, if desired.

WHILE SCALLOPS ARE PLENTIFUL IN CHINA, cooks there prefer dried scallops rather than fresh ones. I blended the flavors of Cantonese cooking with the sweet taste of fresh scallops to create this sophisticated dish. You must use fresh scallops of the highest quality for this dish, never thawed frozen ones that have been soaked in preservatives. Look for very large day-boat or diver scallops at the best fishmongers. Makes 2 to 4 servings

Steamed Scallops with Black Bean Sauce

5 scallions, white and green parts, trimmed: 2 left whole, 3 minced

Four ⅛-inch-thick slices peeled fresh ginger, plus ½ teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

4 fresh day-boat or diver scallops

4 scallop shells for cooking (coquilles St. Jacques shells, available at kitchenware shops) or small ramekins

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

1 ½ teaspoons minced Chinese fermented black beans

1 tablespoon seeded and minced red or green fresh hot chilies, such as Thai or serrano

1 tablespoon minced cilantro

1 ½ tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon rice wine or dry sherry

1 tablespoon soy sauce

¼ cup Chicken Stock (see page 70) or canned chicken broth

1. Bring 4 cups of water to a boil in a wok over high heat. Add the whole scallions, ginger slices, and scallops. Cook just until the edges of the scallops begin to firm, about 1 minute. Drain in a colander. Discard the scallions and ginger. Place 1 scallop in each scallop shell.

2. Bring about 1 inch of water to a boil in the bottom of an Asian-style steamer. Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a wok over high heat. Add the minced scallions, garlic, and black beans, and stir-fry until the scallions are wilted, about 20 seconds. Add the chilies and cilantro,