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3 salty duck eggs

One 2-pound live Dungeness crab (for cooked crab, see Note)

⅓ cup cornstarch

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

5 scallions, trimmed, white and green parts separated and minced

1 small red onion, peeled and minced

1 small fresh red chili, such as serrano, seeded and minced

1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

6 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

1 tablespoon dark sesame oil

¾ tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper, or to taste

2 tablespoons rice wine or dry sherry

Pinch of ground white pepper

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1. Preheat the oven to its lowest temperature, about 150°F. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, and slip in the duck eggs. Simmer for 8 minutes. Rinse the duck eggs under cold water. Shell them and discard the shells and the egg whites (unless you have a use for the egg whites, like serving them as a garnish for jook, the Chinese rice gruel). Mince the egg yolks. Spread the minced yolks on a baking sheet and bake until dried, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool.

2. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the crab and cook until it stops moving, about 2 minutes. Drain, and rinse under cold water. Pull the legs off the crab and discard the feelers. Using a cleaver, chop off the tips of the claws and discard them. Turn the crab upside down. Using kitchen shears, carefully cut the underside of the crab in half and remove it, leaving the carapace (top shell) intact. Scrape out and discard whatever is inside the carapace. Rinse the carapace and set it aside. Discard the gills and the material behind the head. Cut each half of the underside into 2 pieces. Using the blunt edge of the cleaver, crack the claws and legs so that the crab will absorb the flavors and be easy to open and eat.

3. Place the cornstarch in a medium bowl, and dip the crab pieces in it, tossing them until well coated. Heat a large wok over high heat. Add enough oil to come 2 inches up the sides of the wok, and heat it to 325°F. Fry the carapace until it turns deep red, about 30 seconds. Using a wide wire-mesh strainer, transfer it to a serving platter to use as decoration. In two or three batches, add the crab pieces to the wok, and stir gently for 4 minutes. Using the strainer, transfer the pieces to a colander to drain. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the wok.

4. Return the wok with the oil to high heat, and add half the duck egg yolk, the white part of the scallions, and the red onion, chili, ginger, garlic, sesame oil, and black pepper. Stir-fry for 30 seconds. Return the crab to the wok and add the rice wine, white pepper, salt, and sugar. Stir-fry for 30 seconds, or until the crab is piping hot. Transfer to the platter with the carapace, and sprinkle with the green scallion tops and the remaining egg yolk. Serve immediately.

Note: If you have a cooked Dungeness crab, cut it up, following the instructions in step 2. Omit the cornstarch in step 3. Heat the oil as described, and fry the carapace for 30 seconds. Using a wide wire-mesh strainer, transfer it to a serving platter. Add the cooked crab pieces to the wok, and stir gently for 2 minutes. Using the strainer, transfer the pieces to a colander to drain. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the wok. Continue with step 4.

THE CLASSIC FLAVORS of ginger and scallions are a perfect match to the sweetness of soft-shelled crabs. To provide the crabs with an extra measure of crispness, they are deep-fried for three short periods instead of one longer one.

Makes 2 to 4 servings

Soft-Shelled Crabs with Ginger and Scallions

2 soft-shelled crabs

¼ cup all-purpose flour

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying, plus 2 tablespoons

1 scallion, white part only, trimmed and minced

1 tablespoon seeded and minced red bell pepper

1 tablespoon minced cilantro

1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

1 tablespoon rice wine or dry sherry

Pinch of sugar

Pinch of salt

¼ teaspoon dark sesame oil