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5. Return the wok to medium-high heat and add the 2 tablespoons oil. Add the scallions, bamboo shoots, garlic, ginger, and black beans, and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the chicken stock mixture and stir for 30 seconds. Stir in the cornstarch mixture. Using a circular motion, pour the beaten egg slowly into the bean sauce so it floats on top of the sauce, and cook until the egg sets.

6. Spoon the sauce over the crabs, or serve it on the side. Serve immediately.

Note: Tempura batter mix is a commercial blend of flour, cornstarch, leavenings, and dried eggs that makes an especially light coating for deep-fried foods. It is available at Asian and Japanese groceries and in many supermarkets.

Poultry

CHICKEN AND DUCK are treated with the deepest respect by Chinese cooks because they represent the mythological phoenix, the monster with the head of a pheasant and the tail of a peacock that destroys itself in flames, only to be reborn again. The phoenix, and therefore all poultry, is associated with immortality. Chinese mythology states that wherever the phoenix rests, there will be a golden egg laid underneath, and therefore the phoenix also represents prosperity.

In the past two decades, chicken has become so popular that it is replacing pork as the most popular meat in China. Tasty, satisfying, and extremely versatile, it is the main ingredient in some of the most distinctive and flavorful dishes in Chinese cuisine. Beyond the familiar techniques of stir-frying and deep-frying, which are used for two of the most famous of all Chinese chicken dishes, Chengdu Chicken and Kung Pao Chicken, you will also find chicken baked under a thick layer of salt and chicken simmered with soy sauce and spices. No matter which recipe you choose, the result will be juicy and tender, as befits an “immortal” bird.

Duck is usually reserved for very festive occasions celebrated at restaurants. Nonetheless, it is worthwhile to make duck dishes at home because the results are so rewarding. The duck recipes here run the gamut from homey to sophisticated.

CRISPY DEEP-FRIED CHUNKS of chicken thighs are melded with a unique sauce that combines sugar, vinegar, and chilies. You might recognize this as General Tso’s Chicken, which is found on almost every Chinese menu today. Chef Wang and I introduced it to this country at Hunam Restaurant over thirty years ago. At Shun Lee we leave out the handfuls of dried chili peppers that other restaurants insist on using in their versions, and we call it Chengdu Chicken, after the capital city of Sichuan. Makes 4 servings

Chengdu Chicken

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 large egg

¼ cup cornstarch

½ teaspoon salt

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

Sauce

¼ cup minced sweet American pickles (sweet gherkins)

3 tablespoons distilled white vinegar

3 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons rice wine or dry sherry

1 tablespoon Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce

2 teaspoons hot bean paste

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1 scallion, white and green parts, trimmed and minced

2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced ⅛ inch thick

1 small hot chili pepper, such as Thai or cayenne, seeded and minced

6 cilantro sprigs, for garnish

1. Mix the chicken, egg, cornstarch, salt, and 1 tablespoon water in a medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

2. Heat a large wok over high heat. Add enough oil to come about 1 ½ inches up the sides of the wok, and heat it to 375°F. In two batches, add the chicken pieces to the oil, a few pieces at a time (so they don’t splash or stick together), and stir gently, keeping the pieces separate and cooking until the coating looks set but not browned, about 45 seconds. Using a wide wire-mesh skimmer, transfer the chicken to a colander to drain. Using a fine-mesh strainer or skimmer, remove any bits of fried chicken or batter from the oil. Reheat the oil to 375°F. Return the chicken to the wok, and deep-fry again until it is golden brown and crispy, about