The Shun Lee Cookbook - Michael Tong [5]
CHESTNUTS. Roasting and peeling fresh chestnuts is quite a chore. Fortunately cooked and peeled chestnuts can be found in vacuum-sealed packages at Asian groceries and many supermarkets.
CHILIES, DRIED HOT RED. One of the key ingredients of Sichuan cuisine and red-cooked dishes, these are sold in bags at Asian grocery stores and are quite inexpensive. They are on average 2 inches long and are a deep brick-red color. In some recipes the peppers are fried in oil to subtly flavor the oil.
FERMENTED RICE. This is a moist rice that has been fermented in wine. I’ve made it optional in the recipes that call for it (except in Baby Ribs Wuxi-Style, where red fermented rice gives the glaze its distinctive color), as it is found only at well-stocked Asian groceries.
LILY BUDS, DRIED. Sometimes called golden needles, these dried yellow and orange daylily flowers (not actually buds) must be soaked in hot water and then trimmed of their hard stem parts before using. They have an earthy, slightly sour flavor and a firm yet tender texture, and are indispensable in Hot and Sour Soup.
SESAME PASTE. This is the base for the famous Sichuan sesame sauce that is used with noodles. If you need a substitute, use peanut butter; do not use tahini, the Mediterranean sesame paste.
TREE EARS. Also known as black fungus and cloud ears. At first impression, the curly, black dried fungi seem small, but when reconstituted in hot water, they expand to three to five times their size, so use them judiciously. While they have very little flavor, their crunchy texture is invaluable in Hot and Sour Soup and other dishes. If you get the larger variety, trim the base area after soaking, as it can be hard. You can occasionally find fresh ones in specialty markets; just estimate the conversion, as you rarely need more than a large handful to provide the right amount of crunchy texture.
WATER CHESTNUT FLOUR. Made of ground dried water chestnuts, this flour makes an especially crispy coating for fried foods, such as Lemon Chicken.
Salted and Cured Meats
CHINESE SAUSAGE. You’ll see dried, slightly sweet pork sausages hanging in the meat department in Asian groceries. Before using them, they should be steamed for 10 to 15 minutes, until heated through. (In steamed dishes, they are simply added to the pot or steamer.)
DUCK EGGS, SALTY. These duck eggs have been soaked in brine. Usually just the mildly flavored yolk is used—the whites are too salty.
SMITHFIELD HAM. Smithfield ham is similar to the very firm, salty Yunnan ham, which is a good thing because the Chinese one is not exported. Purchase thick slices of Smithfield ham at a supermarket or deli. Just chop the amount you need, then tightly wrap and refrigerate the leftover ham; it will keep for weeks. To remove some of its saltiness, soak the ham in water to cover for 30 minutes or so before using it.
Condiments and Sauces
BARBECUE SAUCE. This bears no resemblance to a Western barbecue sauce, with its sweet-and-sour tomato base. It is made from ground dried fish, chili peppers, garlic, coriander seeds, and other spices. I like Bull Head brand.
CHINESE BLACK VINEGAR. An aged black vinegar, usually made from grains like rice, wheat, and millet, this is similar to Italian balsamic vinegar, which can be used as a substitute. Look for Kong Yen and Chinkiang brands, which have the fullest flavor.
FERMENTED BEAN CURD. This deeply flavored, salty, slightly cheeselike bean curd comes in two colors: white and red. The red variety, which has been colored with red rice, supplies flavor and bright red color to meat dishes such as barbecued spareribs and braised lamb. Koon Chun is a good brand.
FERMENTED BLACK BEANS. One of the classic flavors of Cantonese cooking, these salty, winey soybeans have turned black from fermentation. They should be rinsed before using, and coarsely chopped and mashed to release their flavor. Stored in an airtight container in a cool, dark cupboard, they keep indefinitely.
FISH SAUCE. This important seasoning of Southeast Asian cuisine also