The Shun Lee Cookbook - Michael Tong [51]
THE CHINESE do not eat much beef, partly out of Buddhist respect for the cow. Also, the cow is so useful in an agrarian culture that farmers believe it shouldn’t be eaten. Some scholars have yet a third reason: From years spent pulling the plow, Chinese beef historically has been unpalatably tough. While beef in China is slowly improving, the quality of American beef has always been high, and beef dishes are very popular with our customers at Shun Lee.
The northern Chinese eat lots of lamb, from slowly simmered stews to stir-fries with vegetables. Our lamb rib chops are perfect for a dinner party.
In China pork tops the list of favorite protein foods, although chicken and beef are making inroads, especially among prosperous diners who eat out often. Pork belly, which is fresh, unsmoked bacon, is beloved for its melting texture, and it is worth searching out from a Chinese butcher. Pork butt is the preferred cut for stir-fries.
IN THIS SICHUANESE DISH, the minced beef represents the ants, and the broccoli stems are meant to be the tree. It is a light, refreshing dish, with just a sprinkling of meat, a handful of transparent noodles, and crisp-tender Chinese broccoli. Use broccoli florets instead of the Chinese variety, if you like.
Makes 4 servings
Ants Climbing a Tree
5 ounces flank steak, minced coarsely with a cleaver or in a food processor
½ large egg white (beat a whole egg white until foamy and measure out half)
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon rice wine or dry sherry
Vegetable oil, for passing through, plus 1 tablespoon
1 tablespoon cornstarch, plus 2 teaspoons
Pinch of salt
Pinch of ground white pepper
4 ounces bean threads (mung bean flour noodles)
¼ cup soy sauce
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon hot bean paste
1 scallion, white and green parts, trimmed and minced
¼ cup peeled and minced fresh ginger
4 Chinese dried black mushrooms, soaked in hot tap water until softened, stems trimmed, caps minced
1 ½ tablespoons seeded and minced red bell pepper
1 ½ cups Chicken Stock (page 70) or canned chicken broth
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil
8 ounces Chinese broccoli
1. Combine the steak, egg white, the 1 tablespoon rice wine, the 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, and the 1 tablespoon cornstarch, salt, and white pepper in a medium bowl. Add 1 tablespoon of water and mix well. Cover, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
2. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Add the bean threads, and remove from the heat. Let stand until the bean threads have just softened to the texture of rubber bands, about 10 minutes. Drain in a wire strainer, and set aside.
3. Bring another saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Keep the water boiling so it is ready to cook the broccoli.
4. Heat a large wok over high heat. Add enough oil to come about 1 inch up the sides of the wok, and heat it to 325°F. Add the beef and stir gently until it turns light brown, about 40 seconds. Using a wide wire-mesh strainer, transfer the beef to a colander to drain. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the wok.
5. Mix the soy sauce, sugar, and hot bean paste in a small bowl, and set it aside. Dissolve the 2 teaspoons cornstarch in 1 tablespoon water in a small bowl, and set aside.
6. Return the wok with the oil to high heat. Add the scallion and ginger, and stir-fry until fragrant, about 10 seconds. Add the mushrooms and bell pepper, and stir-fry for 10 seconds more. Add the steak, remaining ¼ cup rice wine, stock, and drained bean threads, and stir-fry for 20 seconds, turning the bean threads vigorously so that everything is thoroughly mixed. Add the soy sauce mixture and the cornstarch mixture and stir-fry until the liquid has nearly evaporated, about 2 to 3 minutes.
7. While the beef and bean thread mixture is cooking, add the broccoli to the boiling water and cook until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Drain in a colander.
8. Arrange the broccoli on a serving platter with the leafy parts at one end. Stir the sesame oil into the beef and bean thread mixture,