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⅓ cup sliced water chestnuts

¼ small red bell pepper, seeds and ribs discarded, cut into strips about 1 ½ inches long and ¼ inch wide

2 tablespoons dark sesame oil

2 scallions, white part only, trimmed and sliced diagonally into ¼-inch pieces

6 large or 10 small garlic cloves, peeled and sliced ⅛ inch thick

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon Chinese black or balsamic vinegar

1. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Add the bok choy and cook for 10 seconds. Then add the bean sprouts and lotus root, and cook for 5 seconds. Add the gingko nuts, sugar snap peas, tree ears, straw mushrooms, dried lily buds, water chestnuts, and bell pepper. Return to a boil and cook for 1 minute. Drain in a colander. Run cold water over the vegetables until they have cooled, about 3 minutes. Place the colander on a plate or bowl to catch the excess water, and refrigerate until the vegetables are well drained and chilled, at least 30 minutes.

2. Heat a large wok over high heat. Add the sesame oil, then the scallions and garlic, and stir-fry just until the garlic is fragrant without turning brown, about 10 seconds. Transfer to a small bowl.

3. Place the chilled vegetables in a serving bowl. Add the sesame oil mixture to the vegetables. Combine the soy sauce, sugar, and vinegar in a small bowl, stirring to dissolve the sugar, and pour over the vegetables. Toss well, and serve immediately.

THE SHANGHAINESE have a particular penchant for foods with unctuous smoothness, and this dish epitomizes that beloved silky quality, with both soft bean curd and a combination of tender mushrooms. The choice of fresh mushrooms is up to you. Use whatever is available, since any mushroom will take to this simple soy and oyster sauce seasoning. A handful of peas adds a colorful green accent. Makes 4 servings

Braised Bean Curd with Chinese Mushrooms

Vegetable oil, for passing through

8 Chinese dried black mushrooms, soaked in hot tap water until softened, stems trimmed, caps cut in half

⅓ cup canned straw mushrooms, drained and cut in half lengthwise ⅓ cup sliced fresh mushrooms

1 pound soft or silken bean curd, drained (see Note), cut in half lengthwise, and cut crosswise 5 times to get 12 pieces

1 scallion, white and green parts, trimmed and sliced diagonally into ½-inch pieces

1 ½ cups plus 3 tablespoons Chicken Stock (page 70) or canned chicken broth

1 tablespoon rice wine or dry sherry

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon oyster sauce

¼ teaspoon sugar

Pinch of ground white pepper

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon dark sesame oil

1. Heat a large wok over high heat. Add enough oil to come about 1 inch up the sides of the wok, and heat it to 325°F. Add the soaked mushrooms, straw mushrooms, and fresh mushrooms, and stir gently until the fresh mushrooms are soft and light brown, about 1 minute. Using a smooth metal strainer, transfer the mushrooms to a colander to drain. Carefully add the bean curd to the wok, and pan-fry, barely moving the bean curd, until it is light brown, about 30 seconds. Using a spatula, gently turn the bean curd over, one or two pieces at a time, so as to avoid breaking the pieces. Cook for 30 seconds. Using a smooth metal strainer, transfer the bean curd to a shallow, smooth colander to drain. Discard all but 2 tablespoons of the oil from the wok.

2. Return the wok with the oil to high heat. Add the scallion and stir-fry for 10 seconds. Stir in the 1 ½ cups stock and the rice wine. Then add the bean curd and mushrooms, and bring to a simmer. Meanwhile, mix the soy sauce, oyster sauce, sugar, and white pepper in a small bowl; add to the boiling liquid. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer gently, uncovered, for 3 minutes. Add the peas and cook for 30 seconds.

3. Dissolve the cornstarch in the remaining 3 tablespoons stock in a small bowl. Add to the wok and cook until the sauce thickens, about 30 seconds. Add the sesame oil, and serve immediately.

Note: Fragile silken