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Makes 2 to 4 servings

Spicy Bean Curd

1 pound silken bean curd (see Note, page 212)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 scallions, white and green parts separate, trimmed and minced 2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

½ to 1 teaspoon Sichuan pepper powder or finely ground Sichuan peppercorns

1 ½ to 2 tablespoons hot bean paste

2 cups Chicken Stock (page 70) or canned chicken broth

2 Chinese dried black mushrooms, soaked in hot tap water until softened, stems trimmed, caps minced

1 tablespoon rice wine or dry sherry

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon oyster sauce

2 teaspoons soy sauce ¾ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon hot chili oil, optional

1 tablespoon dark sesame oil

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1. Drain the bean curd. Cut it in half horizontally, cut the halves lengthwise twice, and then cut the pieces crosswise three times to get 24 cubes (12 cubes on each layer).

2. Heat a large wok over high heat, and add the vegetable oil. Add the white part of the scallions, garlic, Sichuan pepper, and hot bean paste. Stir-fry until the scallions wilt, about 20 seconds. Add the bean curd, stock, mushrooms, rice wine, sugar, oyster sauce, soy sauce, salt, hot chili oil, if using, and the sesame oil. Lower the heat to medium and simmer until the sauce has reduced slightly, about 2 minutes.

3. Dissolve the cornstarch in 3 tablespoons cold water in a small bowl. Add the cornstarch mixture to the wok, bring to a boil, and cook until the sauce thickens, about 30 seconds. Carefully transfer the bean curd and the sauce to a serving dish. Garnish with the scallion greens, and serve immediately.

Note: This dish is sometimes made with ground pork as an additional seasoning. In step 2, after stir-frying the scallions, add about 2 ounces ground pork and stir-fry, breaking up the meat with a spoon, until it loses its pink color, about 1 ½ minutes. Then add the bean curd and proceed with the recipe.

BEIJING DUCK is one of the most festive of all Chinese dishes, and when it is served at a banquet, vegetarians feel left out. This Hunan-style vegetable version is a delicious impostor: Fresh bean curd skin surrounds a filling of mushrooms and bamboo shoots, and the packet is fried until crisp, just like the Beijing duck skin. And like its meaty cousin, it is usually served with Chinese pancakes, a hoisin-based sauce, and slivered scallions and cucumbers. Here it is served with just the sauce and pancakes, but the embellishments are optional.

Makes 2 to 4 servings

Vegetable “Duck” Pie

Filling

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

¼ cup (3 large) Chinese dried black mushrooms, soaked in hot tap water until softened, stems trimmed, caps minced

¼ cup minced canned bamboo shoot

½ teaspoon sugar

⅛ teaspoon salt

Sauce

½ cup hoisin sauce

1 ½ teaspoons rice wine or dry sherry

1 ½ teaspoons distilled white vinegar

½ teaspoon dark sesame oil

Pie

½ teaspoon soy sauce

One 30-inch-diameter bean curd sheet

¼ cup all-purpose flour

½ large egg white (beat a whole egg white until foamy and then measure out half)

Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

8 small mu shu (also called Mandarin) pancakes, about 4 inches in diameter, or 4 large mu shu pancakes, about 8 inches in diameter

1. To make the filling, heat a large wok over high heat. Add the oil and heat until shimmering. Add the mushrooms, bamboo shoots, sugar, and salt, and stir-fry until heated through, about 15 seconds. Transfer to a plate and set it aside.

2. Fill the bottom of an Asian-style steamer with an inch or two of water, and bring it to a boil over high heat. (A collapsible Western-style steamer set in a large saucepan with ½ inch of water works well, too.) Keep the water boiling so the steamer will be ready for the pancakes.

3. To make the sauce, mix the hoisin sauce, rice wine, vinegar, and sesame oil in a small serving bowl. Set it aside.

4. To prepare the pie, mix the soy sauce with 1 ½ tablespoons water in a small bowl. Place the bean curd sheet on a cutting board and fold it in half, so you have a half circle.