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Ragù Bolognese

This is the classic, the one you’ll make again and again. You can double or triple it at will. It also stores well: freeze it in a resealable plastic container for up to 3 months. Makes enough sauce for 1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried pasta

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium onion, chopped

2 celery ribs, thinly sliced into crescents

1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ pound ground beef, preferably 80% lean

¼ pound ground pork

2/3 cup milk, regular or low-fat

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

1 cup white wine, preferably an Italian white

One 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, preferably Italian plum tomatoes, crushed or cut up in the can with kitchen shears (3½ cups)

2 teaspoons minced oregano leaves or 1 teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon salt

Beef broth, as needed

1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried pasta, cooked and drained

1 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the olive oil and butter. When the butter melts, add the onion and cook just until translucent, about 2 minutes.

Add the celery and carrot; cook until glistening and slightly softened, about 1 minute. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 20 seconds, stirring constantly.

Crumble in the beef and pork with a fork, taking care to keep the meat’s fibers intact but not to leave any large clumps. Stir a few times; the moment the meat loses its pink raw color, stir in the milk and nutmeg. Raise the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring once in a while, until the milk has almost evaporated, about 4 minutes.

Stir in the wine, scraping up any browned bits on the pan’s bottom. Keep the heat fairly high and continue simmering until the wine has reduced by half.

Stir in the tomatoes, oregano, and salt. When the mixture comes to a simmer, turn the heat to very low. Simmer, uncovered, at the slightest bubble, just a pop or two, for about 1 hour. You want the sauce to thicken considerably but you must not let it dry out. If it does, add beef broth in ¼-cup increments—but do not allow it to get soupy. It’s a delicate balance; just remember: this is a meat sauce, not a tomato sauce.

To serve, spoon about ½ cup of the sauce in the bottom of a large bowl or serving platter. Top with the hot pasta, then the remainder of the ragù. Sprinkle the grated cheese and pepper over the top.

Pasta Recommendations

Fresh: tagliatelle, No-Yolk Pasta, Whole Wheat Pasta

Dried: any flat noodle

Rabbit Ragù

This is a simpler version of ragù, more complex than a simple pasta sauce, but not as time-consuming as a standard ragù. The rabbit meat is moist and quite luxurious. Makes enough sauce for 1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried pasta

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small rabbit (about 1½ pounds), cut into large pieces (see Note)

1 medium onion, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

1 cup chicken broth

¼ cup dry white wine, preferably an oaky wine like a Chardonnay

1 bay leaf

1 pound Roma or plum tomatoes (about 4 large tomatoes), chopped

1 tablespoon stemmed thyme

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried pasta, cooked and drained

Heat a large, high-sided sauté pan or a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the olive oil, then the rabbit pieces. You may need to work in batches, depending on the size of your pan. Brown the rabbit on all sides, about 3 minutes, turning occasionally.

Once all the rabbit pieces are browned, place them all in the pan, in one layer if possible, and add the onion and carrots. Cook just until the vegetables start to soften, about 1 minute; then pour in the broth and wine. Scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan and tuck in the bay leaf.

Cover the pan, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the rabbit meat is tender enough to fall off the bones, about 40 minutes.

Use a slotted spoon to transfer the