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Once the rabbit is cool enough to handle, take the meat off the bones, taking care to discard any cartilage but also to keep the meat in strips or pieces. Discard the bones and joints. Chop any large pieces into chunks.

Skim any fat in the sauce, then return the pan to medium heat. Add the tomatoes and bring the mixture to a simmer. Cook until the tomatoes break down and the sauce thickens somewhat, about 5 minutes.

Stir in the prepared rabbit meat, thyme, salt, pepper, and cloves. Toss with the cooked pasta to serve.

Note: If you’re squeamish about cutting up a rabbit, or if you’re unsure of its anatomy, ask your butcher to do this for you.

Pasta Recommendations

Fresh: pappardelle, Chestnut Pasta, Spinach Pasta

Dried: any wide, flat noodle

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For a lighter ragù that needs no pasta, try the monkfish version.

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Lamb Ragù

Here’s an unusual ragù, silky and intense. The deep flavors will mask any delicate pasta, so forgo grated cheese and pair it with plain egg noodles. Makes enough sauce for 1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried pasta

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

2 medium carrots, peeled and sliced into thin rings

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 pound boneless leg of lamb, cut into ¼-inch pieces (see Note)

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons packed chopped sage leaves

2 tablespoons chopped rosemary leaves

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 cups chicken or beef broth

1½ cups dry white wine, preferably an oaky wine like a California Chardonnay

¼ cup tomato paste

¼ teaspoon salt

1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried pasta, cooked and drained

Heat a large saucepan over medium heat. Swirl in the olive oil, then add the onion and carrots. Sauté until soft, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté just until aromatic, about 20 seconds.

Add the lamb and brown it fairly well, stirring often, for about 3 minutes.

Sprinkle the flour over the lamb, stir well, and cook for 20 seconds, stirring constantly, just to get rid of the flour’s raw taste. Do not brown the flour.

Add the sage, rosemary, and pepper. Cook for 15 seconds, then stir in the broth and wine, scraping up any browned bits on the pan’s bottom. Raise the heat to medium-high and bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring all the while.

Stir in the tomato paste until it has melted. Reduce the heat to very low and simmer at the merest bubble for 30 minutes with the lid partially askew, stirring well and often to prevent sticking.

Cover the pot and continue simmering until the lamb is quite tender, about 30 minutes, stirring every once in a while. Season with salt before serving.

To serve, place about ¼ cup in the bottom of a large serving bowl or platter. Mound the pasta on top, then pour the rest of the ragù over it.

Note: These are tiny pieces, like a small dice. As you work with the meat, remove any tendons, fat, or leathery silverskin (a translucent, tough membrane that runs along the muscle). You’ll need a sharp, heavy knife for this task.

To store: The lamb ragù can be cooled completely and then stored in a resealable plastic or glass container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month.

Pasta Recommendations

Fresh: not advisable because the sauce’s strong flavors easily overpower soft noodles

Dried: any round, tubular noodle

Chicken Liver Ragù

We first learned about this Italian classic from Marcella Hazan. We’ve simplified her recipe and taken out some of the fat, but it’ll still take the chill off a winter day. Makes enough sauce for 1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried pasta

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 medium onion, roughly chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

½ pound chicken livers, any discolored spots and all fat removed, roughly chopped

1/3 pound ground pork or veal

¼ cup dry white wine or dry vermouth

1 cup chicken broth

2 teaspoons stemmed thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme

¼ cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon tomato paste