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¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried pasta, cooked and drained

1 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

Heat a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the olive oil and butter. When the butter has melted, add the onion. Sauté, stirring frequently, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for just 15 seconds.

Add the chicken livers and the ground pork or veal, breaking the latter apart with a fork. Cook, stirring constantly, just until the livers lose their raw color, about 2 minutes.

Stir in the wine or vermouth, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. When the wine or vermouth comes to a full simmer, stir in the broth and thyme. Reduce the heat to very low and simmer, partially covered, at a very slow bubble until the livers are tender, about 10 minutes, stirring often.

Stir in the cream and tomato paste. Raise the heat and let the sauce come to a full boil, then remove from the heat and season with salt and pepper.

Spoon some of the warm sauce in the bottom of a large bowl or platter. Add the pasta, then pour the remaining sauce over the top. Sprinkle with the cheese and nutmeg.

To store: Place in a resealable container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month.

Pasta Recommendations

Fresh: thick, wide noodles, Spinach Pasta, Whole Wheat Pasta

Dried: any wide, flat noodle

Dan Dan Ragù

Our last, very spicy ragù is a world away from the others—from China, to be exact. Makes enough sauce for 1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried pasta

3 tablespoons sesame oil

3 tablespoons Shaoxing or dry sherry

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

¾ pound ground pork or ground beef, preferably 80% lean

1 tablespoon peanut oil

4 scallions, thinly sliced

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 medium carrot, peeled and sliced into thin rings

1 teaspoon sugar

13/4 cups chicken broth

2 teaspoons Asian red chile paste

1 tablespoon natural-style peanut butter or tahini

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried egg noodles, cooked and drained

¼ cup chopped roasted unsalted peanuts

Whisk the sesame oil, Shaoxing or sherry, soy sauce, and ginger in a medium bowl. Crumble in the beef or pork, stir to coat thoroughly, cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. Let the mixture sit at room temperature for 15 minutes before proceeding with the recipe.

Heat a large saucepan over medium heat. Swirl in the peanut oil, then add the scallions, garlic, and carrot. Sauté just until the scallions turn translucent, about 2 minutes. Do not let the garlic brown.

Crumble the pork or beef into the pan with a fork; add any remaining marinade in the bowl. Cook just until the meat loses its raw, pink color, about 1 minute.

Sprinkle the sugar over the meat, then stir in the broth, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Bring the mixture to a simmer, then stir in the chili paste and peanut butter or tahini.

Reduce the heat to very low, so the sauce bubbles at just the slightest simmer. Set a lid askew over the pan and cook until the pork or beef is very tender and the sauce has thickened somewhat, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Stir in the vinegar. To serve, mound the noodles on a serving platter or in a deep bowl. Top with the sauce, then sprinkle the peanuts over the dish.

To store: Keep in a resealable plastic or glass container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month.

Pasta Recommendations

Fresh: not advisable since the sauce needs a pasta with more tooth

Dried: Any Asian egg noodle, dried udon noodles, or dried soba noodles

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Stuffed Pasta: Shells, Manicotti, Ravioli, and Cappelletti

It’s a four-step process: (1) make the filling, (2) make the dough, (3) shape and stuff it, and (4) sauce or bake it. Naturally, choose the filling, dough, and sauce before you start to make a dish. Stuffed pastas are great to make at parties—get your guests in on the act: open a