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Step 1: Make the filling.

Each of the following fillings was designed to make 1 pound fresh ravioli or cappelletti. If you’re making manicotti or stuffed shells, double the filling recipe.

While the fillings were designed to work with almost any stuffed pasta, we recommend filling shells and manicotti with Basic Cheese, Lemon Ricotta, Squash and Goat Cheese, Artichoke, Bacon and Potato, or Ground Veal (the latter three will not work with a pastry bag; use a small spoon—see section Pasta and Noodles for stuffing instructions).

As a rule, ravioli and cappelletti can be stuffed with any of the fillings, although Artichoke, Ground Veal, and Crab may prove a bit too chunky for cappelletti and can pierce the small shapes.

If you want to sauce stuffed pasta with Cream Sauce or one of its variations, use a noncheese filling like Chestnut. If you’re going to use a thicker sauce like one of the ragùs, use a simple filling like Cheese or Caramelized Leek.

The Ten Fillings

1. Cheese Filling

Makes a little more than 1½ cups

1 cup ricotta, regular or low-fat (do not use fat-free)

4 ounces mozzarella, preferably fresh mozzarella, shredded

4 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated

1 large egg yolk

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Use a wooden spoon to combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl. (Do not whisk—the ricotta will liquefy.) Use at once or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

2. Lemon Ricotta Filling

Makes a little more than 1½ cups

1½ cups ricotta, regular or low-fat (do not use fat-free)

2 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Use a wooden spoon to combine all the ingredients in a medium bowl. Use at once or cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day.

3. Squash and Goat Cheese Filling

Makes about 1½ cups

One 1-pound butternut squash, halved, the seeds scooped out

¼ cup soft goat cheese, such as Montrachet

1 large egg yolk, at room temperature

½ teaspoon stemmed thyme

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

¼ teaspoon salt

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the squash cut side down on a lipped nonstick baking sheet. Bake until soft, about 40 minutes. Cool on the sheet, then scoop out the flesh. You should have about 1¼ cups.

Place the squash, goat cheese, egg yolk, thyme, nutmeg, and salt in a medium bowl; stir until smooth. Use at once or cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

Broccoli and Goat Cheese Filling: Substitute 1¼ cups frozen chopped broccoli, thawed and squeezed of all excess moisture, for the squash. Place the ingredients in a blender or a food processor fitted with the chopping blade; blend or process until smooth.

4. Caramelized Leek Filling

Makes about 1½ cups

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, cut into chunks

4 large leeks, white and pale green parts only, halved lengthwise and washed carefully of any grit and sand between the layers, then thinly sliced (about 6 cups)

1½ ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

Place the butter and leeks in a skillet and then set it over low heat. As the butter melts, continually stir the leeks until they’re coated with it.

Once the butter has fully melted, cook, stirring often, until the leeks soften, about 5 minutes. Do not let the leeks brown—if they do, remove the skillet from the heat and let them cool before proceeding.

Reduce the heat to very low, cover the skillet, and cook stirring often, until the leeks are golden and caramelized, about 10 minutes. Cool in the skillet, then stir in the cheese and vinegar. Use at once or transfer to a resealable plastic container and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

5. Artichoke Filling

Makes about 1½ cups

One 9-ounce box frozen artichoke hearts, thawed

1 large egg yolk

1 small shallot, quartered

2 ounces Asiago, grated

¼ cup finely chopped parsley leaves

½ teaspoon stemmed thyme

¼teaspoon salt

Place the